Restricted Access
The whole Eglwyseg escarpment is both a Site Of Special Scientific Interest. This means that any deliberate or reckless damage or disturbance to the features of the site (inc. to nesting birds, vegetation clearance or drilling) could be regarded as a criminal act.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 February to 15 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Restrictions normally apply from the route "Black & Blue" to the far south side of the crag ("Freshly Dug") inclusive - all routes between and including these routes are usually restricted from Feb 15th until July 15th. Look out for marker posts on the cliff base to confirm the restrictions. All routes on the right hand side of Nemesis wall sector and all of Dawn Buttress sector are affected by this restriction.
Rockfax Description
A good and demanding pitch. Climb up good rock past a thread and move right up a little ramp to an overhang (peg). Pass the overhang on the right and stretch for a good hold above. At the next overhang (old bolt which needs a wire over the bolt head) pull up to a peg in a small corner, avoiding some unstable undercuts, and move left and up with difficulty (old bolts above). Finish up the broken crack. © Rockfax
FA. John Moulding, John Codling 11.4.84 11/Apr/1984.
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Guidebooks for Craig Arthur
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Mental Transition
Grade: E4 6b ***
(Pinfold Area)