UKC

Restricted Access

The whole Eglwyseg escarpment is both a Site Of Special Scientific Interest. This means that any deliberate or reckless damage or disturbance to the features of the site (inc. to nesting birds, vegetation clearance or drilling) could be regarded as a criminal act.

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 February to 15 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Restrictions normally apply from the route  "Black & Blue"  to the far south side of the crag ("Freshly Dug") inclusive - all routes between and including these routes are usually restricted from Feb 15th until July 15th. Look out for marker posts on the cliff base to confirm the restrictions.   All routes on the right hand side of Nemesis wall sector and all of Dawn Buttress sector are affected by this restriction.

 

 

 

 

33m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
An exceptionally positioned top pitch on some great rock.
1) - , 17m. Move up and then left to a belay above the tree. Care needed with the rock but the climbing is easy.
2) 6b, 16m. The double roof stack above guards entry to the headwall. Climb to the roof and crank through it onto the headwall (two pegs). The rounded scoop of lovely rock is taken past a bulge to the top (thread and peg). © Rockfax

FA. John Moulding, F.Stevenson.

Ticklists

Ultimate E4 ticklist , Clwyd Limestone *** Routes

Feedback

User Date Notes
robert mirfin 10 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Project to the right is `Pi` 8a. From the ledge power into the groove, then climb the superb wall above. Best done in a gale
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Project to the right is `Pi` 8a. From the ledge power into the groove, then climb the superb wall above. Best done in a gale

Logged Ascents

4 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Craig Arthur

Not all climbs at crag may appear in this book 7 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 1
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 1
Votes cast 1
Route of Interest
Shooting Star

Grade: E4 6b ***
(World's End)

Loading Notifications...