The whole Eglwyseg escarpment is both a Site Of Special Scientific Interest. This means that any deliberate or reckless damage or disturbance to the features of the site (inc. to nesting birds, vegetation clearance or drilling) could be regarded as a criminal act.
Dates: 15 February to 15 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Restrictions normally apply from the route "Black & Blue" to the far south side of the crag ("Freshly Dug") inclusive - all routes between and including these routes are usually restricted from Feb 15th until July 15th. Look out for marker posts on the cliff base to confirm the restrictions. All routes on the right hand side of Nemesis wall sector and all of Dawn Buttress sector are affected by this restriction.
Rockfax Description
An exceptionally positioned top pitch on some great rock. 1) - , 17m. Move up and then left to a belay above the tree. Care needed with the rock but the climbing is easy.2) 6b, 16m. The double roof stack above guards entry to the headwall. Climb to the roof and crank through it onto the headwall (two pegs). The rounded scoop of lovely rock is taken past a bulge to the top (thread and peg). © Rockfax
FA. John Moulding, F.Stevenson.
Ultimate E4 ticklist , Clwyd Limestone *** Routes
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
robert mirfin | 10 Oct, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Project to the right is `Pi` 8a. From the ledge power into the groove, then climb the superb wall above. Best done in a gale | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Project to the right is `Pi` 8a. From the ledge power into the groove, then climb the superb wall above. Best done in a gale |
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Grade: E4 6b ***
(World's End)