Restricted Access

The whole Eglwyseg escarpment is both a Site Of Special Scientific Interest. This means that any deliberate or reckless damage or disturbance to the features of the site (inc. to nesting birds, vegetation clearance or drilling) could be regarded as a criminal act.


Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 February to 15 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Restrictions normally apply from the route  "Black & Blue"  to the far south side of the crag ("Freshly Dug") inclusive - all routes between and including these routes are usually restricted from Feb 15th until July 15th. Look out for marker posts on the cliff base to confirm the restrictions.   All routes on the right hand side of Nemesis wall sector and all of Dawn Buttress sector are affected by this restriction.






Rockfax Description
One of the best pitches on the crag featuring sustained and technical climbing with generally excellent protection. Begin 4m right of the ground-level tree. Move up to a break and go left to a little corner with a peg above. From the peg move delicately left around the shallow rib to a slab beneath a slim crack. Follow the lovely crack past pegs to a horizontal break. Move left to a tree and climb the crack above to finish. © Rockfax

FA. Stuart Cathcart, Gerald Swindley 29.5.76 29/May/1976.


Clwyd Limestone Top 50 List , Ultimate E3 ticklist , Paul Dearden's classic rock climbs , Clwyd Limestone *** Routes


User Date Notes
Mike Raine 24 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: I agree, fine climb, def 5c
Show beta
βeta: I agree, fine climb, def 5c
Tyler 9 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: A definite 3 star route by any standard, first bold, then a trick move then pumpy.
Show beta
βeta: A definite 3 star route by any standard, first bold, then a trick move then pumpy.

Logged Ascents

95 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Craig Arthur

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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 39
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 38
Votes cast 31
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Solo in Soho

Grade: E3 6a ***
(Pinfold Area)

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