UKC

57m, 3 pitches. One of the best routes on the crag. Start at the foot of the chimney 5m right of the foot of the corner.
1.) 27m, 4a, go up the chimney for 5m traverse left into the corner which is taken to the roof. Step left to belay .
2.) 21m, 4b, climb into the bottomless chimney and ascend past a dubious block to continue up the crack. Move right to another crack which is followed for 5m until a large flake is passed on the left. Go up a slab to belay.
3.) 9m, 4a, trend up leftwards to the top of the final pinnacle and step across to easy ground. Scramble up for 60m then traverse left into the gully.

SM Lane, FA Boydell 1955.

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Route of Interest
Gwern pillar

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Gwern Graig Rock)

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