A fun outing that lies close to the A5 and catches sun for much of the day. The first pitch has lovely rock and the final traverse negotiates some interesting gendarmes not unlike an alpine ridge. Start at the base of the ridge close to the letters PR scratched in the rock.
1) 40m. Follow the right-hand of the two ribs on wonderful clean rock to a steep blocky section that leads to a heathery terrace. Approach along the heather ledge from the right for the Grade-2 scramble version.
2) 15m. Follow easier ground to a good spike belay on a ledge.
3) 22m. Traverse right and climb the ridge to another ledge.
4) 20m. Follow the crested ridge over both pinnacles to gain easy ground. Go to the right of both pinnacles for the Grade-2 scramble. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A four pitch climb with easy access from the road and fun and interesting moves. 1) 30m. Start on a slabby rib which has PR scratched onto it, about 50m? up from the road. Delicate start on small holds. Some tricky moves if in boots. Awkward move into a groove formed on the side of a large block to a possible belay (good, we used it). Or continue more or less straight up and belay on a ledge with spike belays. (This might be the same thing - guidebook is a little confusing)
2) 22m. Continue up a groove for 10m to a heather terrace. Scramble up to reach a sloping heathery ledge with spike belay.
3) 23m. Traverse up and right over heather and rock to just below the continuing ridgeline. (Possible belay if rope drag is a problem.) Good holds lead up to the ridge and a ledge with spike belay.
4) 23m. Climb up to a small ledge below the first pinnacle. (The grade 2 scramble enters from the right about here.) Climb the 3m wall using big flaky holds to end up at the base of the first pinnacle. Climb up and over the pinnacles. (Getting down the first pinnacle's other side is tricky for the short. Can avoid it easily, but it is fun!) After the second big slender pinnacle, climb up a rocky step to a heathery grassy shoulder.
Looked for the loose block previously mentioned on pitch 2. Could not see it presume someone has removed it. Good 1st pitch, great atmospheric 4th pitch!
KU Ingold, Miss PJ Fearon, JM Bell 1950.
North Wales Rock Graded List, Snowdonia - long routes and classic climbs, Preparation climbs for a Cuillin ridge traverse, The Ridges of England, Wales and Ireland, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist
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