UKC

150m, 6 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A massive route that wends its way up the huge serrated arete on the left-hand side of the buttress. Route finding is complex and the climbing and situations remarkably varied. The rock on the whole is very good and, after the initial section of the first pitch, the amount of vegetation does not impose on the climbing.
1) 4c, 34m. Starting just left of the main corner, climb rock and vegetation to a bulge that guards access to a slab. Make a hard move up onto the slab and follow its left side to a belay ledge beneath a left-leaning corner/groove.
2) 4c, 26m. Climb to and up the corner/groove to where it steepens and then traverse right across the wall to a rib and climb this to a grassy ledge. Continue traversing rightwards to a belay in a quartz corner.
3) 4c, 20m. Climb leftwards across a slab to a ledge on the arete. Climb a short but steep groove on the other side of the arete and then head left and down to ledges under a corner-crack.
4) 4c, 18m. Climb the corner, taking care with the rock and traverse right to the arete. Continue to a belay below a flared chimney/groove.
5) 5a, 30m. Climb the excellent chimney groove and rib to its right before heading rightwards up vegetation to a large tree below bulging rock.
6) 4b, 20m. Pull steeply onto the wall above the right-hand end of the bulging rock and climb a short way on rock before grass and heather lead up to belays in boulders. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Due to the overgrown condition of the decent path you could abseil from the tree at the top of P5 using 60m halves to top of P1 of Doom then ab down that.

AJJ Moulam, RE Lambe 26/May/1956.

Ticklists

North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , High Quality Adventure routes , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , North Wales HVS

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High 5b
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High 4c
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Votes cast 18
Votes cast 19
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Merlin Direct

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog))

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