A brilliant line that is incredibly sustained and at the top of the VS grade. The climbing links two huge corner systems to the right of the rib of Acheron. Although appearances would suggest otherwise the amount of vegetation in view does not really get in the way of the climbing.
1) 4c, 36m. Climb the corner until it steepens and then move up right into another shorter corner. Climb the wide crack and then move up and right to a large grass ledge and flake and nut belay.
2) 4c, 28m. Move right and climb a rib to more open ground. Sustained climbing slightly left and then right gains a position below an overhang in the corner. Make an awkward pull over the overhang and climb the corner a few metres to a small block and good nut belays.
3) 4c, 36m. Move up the corner for a couple of metres and step left to a niche on the slab. Follow the excellent crack up the slab and go left to a spike on the arete. Continue up the corner above until it becomes choked with grass and from a good nut make a difficult step left across the slab to easier ground. Climb direct up the slab and then grass to a big tree below bulging rock.
4) 4b, 20m. Pull steeply onto the wall above the right-hand end of the bulging rock and climb a short way on rock before grass and heather lead up to belays in boulders. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A classic line joining and then following the prominent left facing corner high on Craig Llywelyn.
J A Summer, A Gillis 03/Nov/1968.
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