UKC Logbook - 'Doom'

Rockfax Description
A brilliant line that is incredibly sustained and at the top of the VS grade. The climbing links two huge corner systems to the right of the rib of Acheron. Although appearances would suggest otherwise, the obvious vegetation does not really get in the way of the climbing.
1) 4c, 36m. Climb the corner until it steepens, then move up right into another shorter corner. Climb the wide crack and head up and right to a large grass ledge and flake and nut belay.
2) 4c, 28m. Move right and climb a rib to more open ground. Sustained climbing slightly left and then right gains a position below an overhang in the corner. Make an awkward pull over the overhang and climb the corner a few metres to a small block and good nut belays.
3) 4c, 36m. Move up the corner for a couple of metres and step left to a niche on the slab. Follow the excellent crack up the slab and go left to a spike on the arete. Continue up the corner above until it becomes choked with grass. Place a good nut and make a difficult step left across the slab to easier ground. Climb direct up the slab and then grass to a big tree below bulging rock.
4) 4b, 20m. Pull steeply onto the wall above the right-hand end of the bulging rock and climb a short way on rock before grass and heather lead up to belays in boulders. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A classic line joining and then following the prominent left facing corner high on Craig Llywelyn. Due to the overgrown condition of the decent path you could abseil from the tree at the top of P3 using 60m halves to top of P1 then ab down that.

J A Summer, A Gillis 03/Nov/1968.

Ticklists

The 100 Best UK VS routes? , High Quality Adventure routes , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Craciau Llydan Gogledd Cymru , Journey Through Welsh Crack Climbing , Llidberis , Routes for MCI , 3 Star - North Wales HS - HVS

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User	Date		Notes
tim jepson	4 Jun, 2023	Show βeta βeta: June 2023: The abseil descent is very straightforward. At the top of pitch 4 there are several small trees from which to do a short ab down to the large tree. From here two long, clean abseils down the fall line, from in situ slings with maillons, get you back down to the start of the routes. We had 60m ropes, but I think 50m ropes would be long enough.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: June 2023: The abseil descent is very straightforward. At the top of pitch 4 there are several small trees from which to do a short ab down to the large tree. From here two long, clean abseils down the fall line, from in situ slings with maillons, get you back down to the start of the routes. We had 60m ropes, but I think 50m ropes would be long enough.
Gingerlings	22 Sep, 2019	Show βeta βeta: The descent ramp is hard to find and very steep.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: The descent ramp is hard to find and very steep.