UKC

50m. An exceptionally good wall climb on "predominantly" solid rock. Similar experience to Pagan, perhaps a touch easier?? Star at the diagonal fault and follow this up and rightwards for 8m (reasonable gear). At the pod pull out leftwards onto the wall and boldly weave your way up to the break, passing a poor peg. The climbing is never that hard but very bold. On arrival at the break, scurry back and fro along this seeking out the best gear. Cross the overlaps in the centre of the wall passing a poor situ thread. (Good gear in next break). Continue up the wall more steeply and past better gear to a peg. Make harder moves passing this and another peg above. Easier ground and the top follows.

Littlejohn & Hardwick 12/Mar/1987.

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List, Great Wall Climbs of the UK, Ultimate E4 ticklist, 100 Pat Littlejohn Masterpieces

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User Date Notes
Steve Long 13 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Climbers less than 5'10" or with normal "ape index" should take care to plug several cams in below the first of the pegs in the headwall. Taller climbers can clip the top peg before committing, but otherwise if the peg rips (it's not bombproof) you are totally reliant on the cams holding.
 
Show beta
βeta: Climbers less than 5'10" or with normal "ape index" should take care to plug several cams in below the first of the pegs in the headwall. Taller climbers can clip the top peg before committing, but otherwise if the peg rips (it's not bombproof) you are totally reliant on the cams holding.
Mick Lovatt 12 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: All fixed gear replaced March 2020. First peg still poor due to quality of rock around the placement.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: All fixed gear replaced March 2020. First peg still poor due to quality of rock around the placement.

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Route of Interest

Cardiac Arete

Grade: E4 6a ***
(Craig Pant Ifan (Tremadog))
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