Rockfax Description
This stupendous route is just plain hard. It tackles the slender groove running the full height of the crag via some intense and sustained moves and it regularly stops very competent climbers in their tracks.
1) 15m. Scramble up slabby rock below and right of the corner, then climb up, step right and then up to a ledge. Move up left to belay below the overhangs.
2) 6a, 35m. Climb up past the fangs then up the groove above to just below a roof. Step left into the main corner and make desperate layback moves up this to an overlap. Pull over this then continue up the still-difficult corner above to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Extreme Rock, The Tremadog 'V's', North Wales Rock Graded List, UK Extreme Corners, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, Cracks And Corners To Greatness, Alex's Wales ticklist, Ultimate E4 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Colin Goodey - A Ticklist for Everyone, UK Holiday Plans, Definitive *** Tremadog

Feedback

There is no feedback for this climb.

Login as Existing User to add your feedback

Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Dan Hale 25 May Lead G/U Happy to get this done today. Lowered off just past the peg a fortnight ago with Lewis as it was really hot and muggy and I couldn't feel my feet. First go today no problem; much better conditions with the gentle breeze and shade, felt a lot more energetic than last time.
with Dom
Happy to get this done today. Lowered off just past the peg a fortnight ago with Lewis as it was really hot and muggy and I couldn't feel my feet. First go today no problem; much better conditions with the gentle breeze and shade, felt a lot more energetic than last time.
with Dom
geoff b 18 May AltLd rpt As part of the BMC International meet. A route too far? I pootled up P1, Kyle got the meaty P2, which proved a real battle with numerous falls & rests. For me it was like London buses: you wait 40 years to do a route & then do it twice in a month!
with Kyle Stewart
As part of the BMC International meet. A route too far? I pootled up P1, Kyle got the meaty P2, which proved a real battle with numerous falls & rests. For me it was like London buses: you wait 40 years to do a route & then do it twice in a month!
with Kyle Stewart
ian bryant 17 May AltLd rpt
George_Surf 10 Apr Lead O/S Sustained! Found the hardest section between the first and second roof. Passing the main roof is ok. On the whole really safe; small wires (lots) and small/medium cams. Some thin feet above the bad peg. It’s really technical bridging, but the locks in the crack are generally good. Eases after halfway but there’s still a few moves. Ab station needs replacing (~10m rope)! A totally classic line and really good rough rock.
Sustained! Found the hardest section between the first and second roof. Passing the main roof is ok. On the whole really safe; small wires (lots) and small/medium cams. Some thin feet above the bad peg. It’s really technical bridging, but the locks in the crack are generally good. Eases after halfway but there’s still a few moves. Ab station needs replacing (~10m rope)! A totally classic line and really good rough rock.
rachelpearce01 10 Apr 2nd Found it all quite sustained, no standout crux. Some great moves on it!
Found it all quite sustained, no standout crux. Some great moves on it!
geoff b 7 Apr Lead O/S Wow! Been on the radar for 40 years & only now is it finally ticked. What a battle though: it doesn't let up until the final move & there were parts I have no idea how I got up. :-)
Wow! Been on the radar for 40 years & only now is it finally ticked. What a battle though: it doesn't let up until the final move & there were parts I have no idea how I got up. :-)
MikePycroft 7 Apr 2nd dog Point of aid on the large cam above the peg
with geoff b
Point of aid on the large cam above the peg
with geoff b
Sophie Nunn 18 Nov, 2018 Lead dog
with Jase W
with Jase W
beni 22 Jul, 2018 Lead dnf
ian bryant 22 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
pipof747 16 May, 2018 Lead O/S
BRoe 5 Apr, 2018 Lead O/S One of the best fights I've ever had!
with MarkRoe
One of the best fights I've ever had!
with MarkRoe
Hidden ??, 2018 -
dcussen ?May, 2017 Lead O/S
Luke Brooks 26 Oct, 2016 2nd
with Glyn
with Glyn
Glyn 26 Oct, 2016 Lead O/S Wow, awesome climbing! Defiantly one if the best at Tremadog.. That's saying something! Long, sustained, interesting and perfect rock all the way :-)
Wow, awesome climbing! Defiantly one if the best at Tremadog.. That's saying something! Long, sustained, interesting and perfect rock all the way :-)
Flavio 11 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S Only looked at the line and grade in the book and didn't read the "just plain hard" bit or "stops competent climbers" bit. Ran out of gear and made big run-outs on wires larks footed with slings. Done easier E5s. Hard, scary, dodgy, and pretty amazing.
Only looked at the line and grade in the book and didn't read the "just plain hard" bit or "stops competent climbers" bit. Ran out of gear and made big run-outs on wires larks footed with slings. Done easier E5s. Hard, scary, dodgy, and pretty amazing.
No? Yes! 23 Jul, 2016 2nd dog Gutsy lead by Rob on slippy humid day - too sustained for me to follow in style ! 1 fall, slips and pull on gear.Work to be done….
with Rob Andrews
Gutsy lead by Rob on slippy humid day - too sustained for me to follow in style ! 1 fall, slips and pull on gear.Work to be done….
with Rob Andrews
Hidden 14 Jul, 2016 Lead RP
AdrianP 5 Jul, 2016 Lead RP
with Peter
with Peter
mcgovern 18 Mar, 2016 Lead
with joe ucc
with joe ucc
James Beaumont 17 Mar, 2016 2nd O/S Some of the best moves I've ever done in North Wales, still a fair way off of leading it mind, was pumped out my brain
with Anna
Some of the best moves I've ever done in North Wales, still a fair way off of leading it mind, was pumped out my brain
with Anna
harvie ??, 2016 -
Hidden ??, 2016 2nd
Hidden ??, 2016 -
James Thacker ??, 2016 -
WB 17 Oct, 2015 Lead Eek.
with Andy M
Eek.
with Andy M
hamer89 ?Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
Andy Peak 1 6 Jun, 2015 2nd Hard fell of the crux
Hard fell of the crux
Misha 6 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S Quality! Pleased to get this clean, especially after the fight on Fingerlicker. Super technical with some unlikely looking moves coming up to the overhang but not that physical. Steadier above but still tricky. Deserves E4 but not that hard at the grade.
Quality! Pleased to get this clean, especially after the fight on Fingerlicker. Super technical with some unlikely looking moves coming up to the overhang but not that physical. Steadier above but still tricky. Deserves E4 but not that hard at the grade.
Hidden 26 May, 2015 Lead O/S
Adam Booth 26 May, 2015 2nd O/S
markalmack 17 May, 2015 Lead rpt
with sam farnsworth
with sam farnsworth
Hidden ??, 2015 -
phil64 ??, 2015 -
Hidden ??, 2015 -
Alex Mason 22 Oct, 2014 Lead O/S Ace route. Techy and strenny.
Ace route. Techy and strenny.
Mike Goldthorp 22 Oct, 2014 Lead RP Finally lead it clean after 3rd time of asking. Happy days :-)
Finally lead it clean after 3rd time of asking. Happy days :-)
Dan Vaj 28 Mar, 2014 2nd O/S
with James McHaffie
with James McHaffie
mike mo ??, 2014 -
owain86 24 Aug, 2013 2nd β Flashed on second, ace route!
Flashed on second, ace route!
Tom Livingstone 24 Aug, 2013 Lead rpt Awesome route, really technical and doesn't let up much! Fell at crux, came back down and did it clean. ropes were still clipped to gear cos im lazy.
with owain86
Awesome route, really technical and doesn't let up much! Fell at crux, came back down and did it clean. ropes were still clipped to gear cos im lazy.
with owain86
Hidden ?Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
tim newton 23 May, 2013 2nd O/S
with rich gentry
with rich gentry
willoates 13 Mar, 2013 Lead O/S Glad to have got this one, it had been in my head as being nails and was fully expecting to fall off. found it hard but ok.
Glad to have got this one, it had been in my head as being nails and was fully expecting to fall off. found it hard but ok.
Luke Brooks 13 Mar, 2013 2nd
neilh ??, 2013 -
Dave Turnbull, BMC 27 Oct, 2012 Lead rpt First led this in 1998 with Alard Hufner
with Chris Rees
First led this in 1998 with Alard Hufner
with Chris Rees
Ed Babs 7 Sep, 2012 Lead RP Spat off a couple of times by due to poor technique. A lesson learned. Quality route.
with IainAM
Spat off a couple of times by due to poor technique. A lesson learned. Quality route.
with IainAM
Owain Llewelyn 22 Jul, 2012 Lead O/S
with Gareth E
with Gareth E
datoon 15 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S
with K
with K
Luke Brooks 12 Jul, 2012 2nd
with John Orr
with John Orr
Hidden 18 May, 2012 -
markalmack 6 May, 2012 Lead O/S well good!
well good!
david morse 6 May, 2012 2nd O/S
samrad 23 Jan, 2012 2nd
with tom livingstone
with tom livingstone
Tom Livingstone 23 Jan, 2012 Lead dog 3 rests. Didn't help that some holds were gopping. A fantastic route. Pretty strenuous! will go clean next time. the votes reflect how I found the climb (perhaps)
with samrad
3 rests. Didn't help that some holds were gopping. A fantastic route. Pretty strenuous! will go clean next time. the votes reflect how I found the climb (perhaps)
with samrad
Dan Arkle ??, 2012 Lead
Hidden ??, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 28 Sep, 2011 Lead O/S
gregoritos 13 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
gforce 9 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S Felt really hard - pleased to get up it. Felt E5 to me! Must have been doing something wrong...
with mavtu
Felt really hard - pleased to get up it. Felt E5 to me! Must have been doing something wrong...
with mavtu
Ed Booth 24 May, 2011 Lead O/S
with mike hawksbye
with mike hawksbye
soph ??, 2011 Lead O/S Desperate!
with Dan McManus
Desperate!
with Dan McManus
Hidden ??, 2011 -
GeoffG ??, 2011 -
Jack Geldard ??, 2011 -
Marcus ??, 2011 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??, 2011 Lead Inconceivably hard, I remember feeling like I could fall off every move! Benchmark Tremadog E3...
with Helena Robinson
Inconceivably hard, I remember feeling like I could fall off every move! Benchmark Tremadog E3...
with Helena Robinson
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Mike Goldthorp 21 Nov, 2010 Lead dog Argh bummer, nemesis route, so physical! Fell off at the same place as last time, was using a stoopid foothold, did it ok once I spotted a better situated one. Next tiiime! 4* benchmark E4 (never E3 like north wales rock suggested)
Argh bummer, nemesis route, so physical! Fell off at the same place as last time, was using a stoopid foothold, did it ok once I spotted a better situated one. Next tiiime! 4* benchmark E4 (never E3 like north wales rock suggested)
Luke Brooks 10 Jun, 2010 2nd
with barni
with barni
barni 10 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
hepitt 17 May, 2010 2nd dog Loads of falls and rests - VVV hard! very technical!
with Rob Pitt
Loads of falls and rests - VVV hard! very technical!
with Rob Pitt
Rob Pitt 17 May, 2010 Lead dog
with Helen Pitt
with Helen Pitt
3 Names 1 May, 2010 Lead dnf
with Dan H
with Dan H
barni 16 Apr, 2010 2nd
Luke Brooks 16 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S
with barni
with barni
Hidden 10 Feb, 2010 Lead
feilx 12 Dec, 2009 Lead O/S
with La Mont
with La Mont
HeatherF 7 Sep, 2009 2nd
with Mike
with Mike
Mike Goldthorp 7 Sep, 2009 Lead dog Strenuous. Will go clean next time. Wicked fall!
Strenuous. Will go clean next time. Wicked fall!
AdrianP ?Jul, 2009 Lead dog A fantastic climb, rested once at the end of the crux... Got to come back to do this clean.
with Olli
A fantastic climb, rested once at the end of the crux... Got to come back to do this clean.
with Olli
dan gibson 23 Apr, 2009 Lead O/S
with john nuttal
with john nuttal
Pete Graham ?Apr, 2009 2nd
with malx
with malx
JulesV ??, 2009 Lead O/S
Toby Dunn 26 Jul, 2008 Lead O/S
with JulesV
with JulesV
Mark Stevenson 16 May, 2008 Lead dnf
with Ferran Martinez
with Ferran Martinez
Marcus ??, 2008 -
Hidden 5 May, 2007 Lead O/S
Hidden 5 May, 2007 2nd
Rob Kennard ??, 2007 -
IOAN D 1 Jun, 2006 Lead O/S
with Mills
with Mills
Hidden ??, 2006 -
Tom Briggs ??, 2005 -
Hidden ??, 2005 -
nicholas Barrowclough ?Aug, 2004 Lead
DubyaJamesDubya 25 Aug, 2003 Lead O/S
with Paul Collis
with Paul Collis
nige 30 Mar, 2003 2nd
with mark hounslea
with mark hounslea
Just Another Dave ??, 2001 2nd dog nails!
with Jo Bertalot
nails!
with Jo Bertalot
Hidden 27 May, 2000 Lead
Mark Lloyd ??, 1999 Lead O/S
Hidden 11 Jan, 1998 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Jul, 1997 2nd
pete johnson 12 Apr, 1997 Lead dog
with Paul Stott
with Paul Stott
Dave Musgrove Jnr 2 Mar, 1997 Lead
with Muir Morton
with Muir Morton
richparry ??, 1997 -
frank ramsay ??, 1996 Lead
with clark alston
with clark alston
Eduardo Martinez 25 Jun, 1995 Lead O/S
michael burrows 26 Feb, 1995 Lead dog 1 pt of rest
with brian jones
1 pt of rest
with brian jones
mike mo ??, 1995 -
keefe ??, 1995 -
Glenn Sutcliffe ??, 1995 -
with keefe
with keefe
Ched ??, 1995 -
jfletcher 20 Aug, 1994 Lead O/S
with Phil Dowthwaite
with Phil Dowthwaite
Nick Biven ??, 1994 2nd
with Rich Whitwell
with Rich Whitwell
crossleysm ?Jun, 1993 -
MikeYouCanClimb ??, 1993 -
with Sally
with Sally
Hidden ??, 1993 Lead
Tony Little 21 Jun, 1992 Lead O/S
mik1miller ??, 1992 Lead O/S
with bernie bradbury
with bernie bradbury
Alan James - UKC and UKH 10 Jul, 1990 Lead
Steve Crowe 10 Jul, 1990 2nd O/S
with Niff
with Niff
Hidden 2 Jun, 1990 Lead O/S
Greg Cunningham 1 Jun, 1990 -
Hidden ??, 1990 AltLd
Hidden ??, 1990 2nd
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
andy gittins ??, 1990 Lead
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
Seymore Butt ??, 1990 2nd
with Dave Barton
with Dave Barton
DDDD ??, 1990 -
keefe ?Jul, 1989 -
with Johnny Adams
with Johnny Adams
Chris Wright 31 May, 1989 Lead O/S
Bob 22 Apr, 1989 Lead O/S Ran out of quickdraws half way up so had to leap-frog the last couple to the top. Easy for the grade.
with R. Graham
Ran out of quickdraws half way up so had to leap-frog the last couple to the top. Easy for the grade.
with R. Graham
uphillnow 1 Oct, 1988 Lead rpt Had seconded John Stanger on the route in 1986.Had a rest on the ledge above the fangs and fiddled loads of gear in the next section before going for it. Helped to have done it before and know where the best pro was.
with Frank Horseman
Had seconded John Stanger on the route in 1986.Had a rest on the ledge above the fangs and fiddled loads of gear in the next section before going for it. Helped to have done it before and know where the best pro was.
with Frank Horseman
Hidden 2 Jun, 1988 Lead dog
Hidden 30 Apr, 1988 Lead
Graham Carter ??, 1988 Lead
with JSMTC Staff
with JSMTC Staff
UKB Shark 10 Jun, 1987 Lead
with Seb Grieve
with Seb Grieve
Neil McA 23 May, 1987 Lead O/S Hard but brilliant!
with Gary ?
Hard but brilliant!
with Gary ?
Dave Musgrove 3 May, 1987 Lead O/S
with Kim Greenald
with Kim Greenald
sadams 15 Apr, 1987 Lead O/S
with Guy Townsend
with Guy Townsend
William Robertson ??, 1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ??, 1987 2nd
with Bill Williamson
with Bill Williamson
Steve Bell ??, 1985 -
Hidden ?Sep, 1984 2nd
keefe 20 Apr, 1984 -
Hidden ??, 1984 Lead
stp 29 Oct, 1983 Lead O/S
with Ben Moon
with Ben Moon
Ian Jones ??, 1983 - Easy
with Robert Kieske ('Flog')
Easy
with Robert Kieske ('Flog')
Mike Owen 2 May, 1981 Lead O/S
with Phil Ralph
with Phil Ralph
clanger ??, 1981 AltLd
with Cliff Fanshaw
with Cliff Fanshaw
Mark Kemball 29 Jun, 1980 Lead
with Wawa
with Wawa
Hidden 26 Jan, 1980 Lead
Marcus ??, 1980 -
daviesxxx ??, 1980 -
Marcus ??, 1980 -
Marcus ??, 1980 -
William Robertson ??, 1980 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Marcus ??, 1980 -
Hidden 5 Jun, 1977 AltLd
Hidden ??, 1973 -
25 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 33
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 34
Votes cast 29
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Redpoint
DNF
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set