UKC

Restricted Access

A crag for the experienced only - great adventures and stunning routes, but some loose sections and scary run-outs as well.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 February to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restrictions for this cliff were reviewed in Spring 2021 and restrictions now only apply to the  following routes: 

Duration of the restriction - February 1st-June 30th. (nesting Ravens and Choughs).

Routes that fall under the above restrictions are:

     - Tell Your God To Ready For Blood

     - Chosstokovitch

     - Error Of Judgement

Previous restrictions around the Noble Savage area have been removed  due to no evidence of nesting birds for many years.

30m. The orange wall above the pinnacles and to the right of the large, Tonight at Noon, cave.

Climb the easy groove between the pinnacles before stepping left, to stand on the smaller towers, beneath a v-groove and roof as for Harmony.

Climb the v-groove until beneath the roof. Where Harmony hand traverses left, stand up and climb rightwards around the arĂȘte until it is possible to pull onto the wall above. Climb direct until reaching the right side of the massive crozzly pocket. Pull up, into the pocket and climb directly out via pockets above, (old stacked pegs and a tied off peg on the right as for Pysgodyn Aur) until at a large hold beneath the poor tied-off blade peg, also for Pysgodyn Aur. The peg was replaced in 2020 but it was ground down and it's not in very deep. The gear for the section from the Crozzly pocket to the big hold beneath the blade peg is not good. (A crucial cam in small pocket not far above the stacked pegs is the best and a slider nut, a few moves above the cam in a shallow pocket, can also be taken if you own such a thing). From the large hold, a series of crimpy moves left, then up, (including the crux of Harmony) reach the large ledge. Stack the break with good small cams. Climb directly up the wall above, following a series of positive edges with one small peg for protection.

Nick Bullock, Mick Lovatt 30/Jun/2020.

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Route of Interest
Disney Pixar

Grade: E7 6c ***
(Twll Mawr)

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