Restricted Access

A crag for the experienced only - great adventures and stunning routes, but some loose sections and scary run-outs as well.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 February to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restrictions for this cliff were reviewed in Spring 2021 and restrictions now only apply to the  following routes: 

Duration of the restriction - February 1st-June 30th. (nesting Ravens and Choughs).

Routes that fall under the above restrictions are:

     - Tell Your God To Ready For Blood

     - Chosstokovitch

     - Error Of Judgement

Previous restrictions around the Noble Savage area have been removed  due to no evidence of nesting birds for many years.

30m. 30m. The clean upper wall to the right of the Tonight at Noon cave.

Climb the easy groove between pillars to stand on top of the left pillar beneath a v-groove and roof. Climb the v-groove before a hand traverse left for a couple of metres. Pull the roof above on big flake holds. Once stood above the roof, climb rightwards on big holds (good gear) until a massive crozzly pocket with a weird brown tufa is reached. Climb leftWards from the crozzly pocket, and once on the front face, directly up into a series of good pockets. Arrange gear, it's the last for a while, before a sustained sequence right leads to the fingery crux, a hard pull up, from a a series of small crimps, to a small flat hold and then a thank God pop for the big holds of the horizontal shelf. (good gear) Shuffle left on big holds, (good rest in big pocket) before the hard, but well protected final crack and awkward mantle.

Stevie Haston Sep/2009.


100 Worthwhile E7's


User Date Notes
Mick Lovatt 17 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Outstanding route, superb climbing.
Show beta
βeta: Outstanding route, superb climbing.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Craig Doris

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High E8
Mid E8
Low E8
High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
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High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 2
Votes cast 2
Route of Interest

Grade: E7 6c ***
(Twll Mawr)

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