Restricted Access
A crag for the experienced only - great adventures and stunning routes, but some loose sections and scary run-outs as well.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 February to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
The restrictions for this cliff were reviewed in Spring 2021 and restrictions now only apply to the following routes:
Duration of the restriction - February 1st-June 30th. (nesting Ravens and Choughs).
Routes that fall under the above restrictions are:
- Tell Your God To Ready For Blood
- Chosstokovitch
- Error Of Judgement
Previous restrictions around the Noble Savage area have been removed due to no evidence of nesting birds for many years.
Climb the easy groove between pillars to stand on top of the left pillar beneath a v-groove and roof. Climb the v-groove before a hand traverse left for a couple of metres. Pull the roof above on big flake holds. Once stood above the roof, climb rightwards on big holds (good gear) until a massive crozzly pocket with a weird brown tufa is reached. Climb leftWards from the crozzly pocket, and once on the front face, directly up into a series of good pockets. Arrange gear, it's the last for a while, before a sustained sequence right leads to the fingery crux, a hard pull up, from a a series of small crimps, to a small flat hold and then a thank God pop for the big holds of the horizontal shelf. (good gear) Shuffle left on big holds, (good rest in big pocket) before the hard, but well protected final crack and awkward mantle.
Stevie Haston Sep/2009.
Ticklists
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mick Lovatt | 17 Jun, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Outstanding route, superb climbing. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Outstanding route, superb climbing. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Craig Doris
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Blockhead
Grade: E7 6c ***
(Twll Mawr)