UKC

40m. The route climbs the left arête of Rust Never Sleeps.

Start as for Rust Never Sleeps and climb it to a resting position in the base of the groove. Step up, clip the peg then boldly break out left onto the steep left arête. Climb straight up for 10m passing a pair of short stacked blade pegs and a crucial DMM blue offset to a shakeout at a crumbly break below the golden headwall. (Good medium cams). Climb diagonally right on fragile crimps to the arête and continue up this to good small cams beneath the final steep wall. Sprint up this to the top.

First ascent: Mick Lovatt & Nick Bullock 4th September 2018

Mick Lovatt & Nick Bullock 04/Sep/2018.

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Grade: E8 6c ***
(Gallt Yr Ogof)

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