UKC

Restricted Access

A crag for the experienced only - great adventures and stunning routes, but some loose sections and scary run-outs as well.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 February to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restrictions for this cliff were reviewed in Spring 2021 and restrictions now only apply to the  following routes: 

Duration of the restriction - February 1st-June 30th. (nesting Ravens and Choughs).

Routes that fall under the above restrictions are:

     - Tell Your God To Ready For Blood

     - Chosstokovitch

     - Error Of Judgement

Previous restrictions around the Noble Savage area have been removed  due to no evidence of nesting birds for many years.

40m. An independent line on the right side of Stigmata Buttress between Rust Never Sleeps and Rocking in the Free World. Start a couple of meters to the left of the corner of Rocking in the Free World at a funky band of red rock. Climb direct following a vague crack. Place good cams and steeply teeter upwards passing more funky red rock ledges which provide the gear in the form of slings. Aim for a ‘red horn’ which is a bit hollow, before the crux moves and good gear in a pocket. A short and pumpy, right to left hand traverse on good holds lead direct to more good gear and steeper ground until directly beneath the arete to the right of Rust Never Sleeps upper section. Pull around the overhang beneath the arete, on the left, before forcing yourself, after a couple of moves up the wall, back right onto the arête. Climb the arête using holds on either side until a junction, at the top of the arete, with Rust Never Sleeps. Where Rust traverses left, climb overhangs direct passing through a prominent v-notch. Mantle the v-notch and a few moves lead to the top.


First Ascent: Nick Bullock & Mick Lovatt 16 August 2018

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Route of Interest
Disney Pixar

Grade: E7 6c ***
(Twll Mawr)

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