A slightly scrappy ridge but in a beautiful and remote setting. The route faces north and isn't popular so expect vegetation which can make it treacherous if at all damp. It also has a tricky crux section where a rope is recommended. Approach as fro Craig Lloer but make your way up towards the base of Broad Gully.
1) Start to the left of Broad Gully towards the toe of the ridge. Head a little higher up the hillside at the base of another short rib and make an awkward move up its right side.
2) Move up to a prominent grassy runnel that leads from left to right and follow it to a ledge below a blank whitish wall.
3) Move left below this and climb its left edge back right to a grassy spur. This leads up to another impasse by a darker triangular buttress which blocks upward progress.
4) To the left of the buttress is a groove with two prominent wedged blocks. Passing these direct is tricky but less scary than making a pull leftwards from by the first block. This section is difficult and a rope and gear is recommended.
5) Carry on, bridging up the groove above the wedged blocks to below a small wall. Climb this near its left arete.
6) Easier ground leads up through a few rocky sections by heather and scree. Much more care is needed with loose rock in this easier upper section.
Descent - Head down the East Ridge of Pen yr Ole Wen. © Rockfax
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