Restricted Access
Access can be sensitive due to recent publicity given to the nearby gorge in mainstream and social media and issues to do with commercial group activities. It is environmentally sensitive and also has historical features that the NT wish to protect.
To avoid any future access issues, climbers should avoid using the riverside walkway and ladders.
Parking should be in the layby on the A470, some 500m west of the crag. Do not park on the grass verge adjacent to the entrance gate/paths.
Rockfax Description
The main right-facing groove in the middle of the crag. Climb a crack to a sloping ledge below where the groove starts. Head up the groove, passing a little overlap, to a niche below the final steep section. A loose VS 5a finish heads left from here but the best finish is straight up. Arrange good gear, then tackle the upper corner which requires a fast and steady approach with not much more in the way of gear. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The obvious groove/corner in the centre of the crag. The VS version heads of left near the top, on an obvious traverse, but it's much better to keep heading straight up at HVS 5b to finish. It feels much easier than the grade given in the guidebook.
*June 2011 - a few large blocks have become loose, notably on the final traverse, so take care...
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| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| geoff b | 1 Aug, 2021 |
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βeta: Has been well cleaned of brambles etc. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Has been well cleaned of brambles etc. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Craig Rhiw Goch
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Grey Arête
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Glyder Fawr)