UKC

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A great traditional crag with some extremely popular routes such as Creagh Dhu Wall, Tensor and Pellagra.

From March to July there has been Owls and Jackdaws spotted nesting on some of the routes, please check your routes before setting of. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Tawny owls nest on the first pitch of Creagh Dhu Wall (shared with One step in the Crowds). It's also worth noting that Tawny owls can be exceptionally aggressive in defending their nests and there are known cases of serious eye injuries caused to people who venture too close to Tawny owl nests!

 April 2024 - Jackdaws nesting on the first pitch of Mensor, please avoid this area until they have left. 

45m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A pleasant route that can be climbed in one long pitch if you are careful with your ropes. Start below a pinnacle with a wide crack up its centre, where a tree abuts the base of the cliff.
1) 4b, 20m. Move up the left edge of the pinnacle until below a small roof. Step left round this and trend up and right to a sloping ledge and belay, or continue.
2) 4c, 25m. Move up the shallow groove on the right and traverse right to the rib at the break. Climb the steep wall to easier climbing above to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Starts well towards the right of the crag where a contorted oak (with several dead branches) grows from the foot of the crag just below a prominent rib.
1. 20m 4b Climb up the wide crack on the left edge of the rib, bearing right to stand on the tiny pinnacle below black overhangs. Step up and left around the arete and climb steeply via a thin flake, moving right to belay on a large sloping ledge.
2. 25m 4b Step up right into the foot of a groove and continue in a fine position around the arete. Climb the steep wall above on excellent holds and finish more easily up the buttress. At the moment (June 2010) there is an in situ abseil anchor.

D Alcock, A Cowburn 25/Apr/1964.

Ticklists

UK Holiday Plans , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist

Feedback

User Date Notes
johnlees 4 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: There is a birds nest in the crack on the 1st pitch. A group climbed it this afternoon after making them aware which was a bit sad to see.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There is a birds nest in the crack on the 1st pitch. A group climbed it this afternoon after making them aware which was a bit sad to see.
mandyglanvill 4 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: There is a jackdaw nest in crack above start, but does not involve route.
Show beta
βeta: There is a jackdaw nest in crack above start, but does not involve route.
Butty 23 Apr, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Great route with some airy moves on both pitches. Easy enough route finding and gear where you need it.... Not sure the 2nd pitch is the crux? For me it was the last couple of moves of P1 but maybe I missed something. Abseiled back down to the rucksacks and tat in good condition and the tree is solid.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great route with some airy moves on both pitches. Easy enough route finding and gear where you need it.... Not sure the 2nd pitch is the crux? For me it was the last couple of moves of P1 but maybe I missed something. Abseiled back down to the rucksacks and tat in good condition and the tree is solid.
pete johnson 19 Apr, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: 40m not 48m as in CC guide. Better done in one pitch.
βeta?
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βeta: 40m not 48m as in CC guide. Better done in one pitch.
Siongethinhill 20 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Abseil tat at top of route
βeta?
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βeta: Abseil tat at top of route
Andypeak 13 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Led 2nd pitch
Show beta
βeta: Led 2nd pitch

Logged Ascents

388 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Craig y Castell (Tremadog)

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 75 users have this on their wishlist

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 48
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 42
Votes cast 45
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Flake Crack

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Clogwyn y Tarw (The Gribin Facet))

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