UKC

45m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A rather pleasant route that can be climbed in one long pitch if you are careful with your ropes. Start below a pinnacle right of the rib of Tarantula's first pitch.
1) 4b, 18m. Move up the left edge of the pinnacle to below a small roof. Move left round this and trend up and right to a sloping ledge and possible belay.
2) 4c, 22m. Move up the shallow groove on the right and traverse right to the rib at the break. Climb the steep wall, crux, to easier climbing above to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Starts well towards the right of the crag where a contorted oak (with several dead branches) grows from the foot of the crag just below a prominent rib.
1. 20m 4b Climb up the wide crack on the left edge of the rib, bearing right to stand on the tiny pinnacle below black overhangs. Step up and left around the arete and climb steeply via a thin flake, moving right to belay on a large sloping ledge.
2. 25m 4b Step up right into the foot of a groove and continue in a fine position around the arete. Climb the steep wall above on excellent holds and finish more easily up the buttress. At the moment (June 2010) there is an in situ abseil anchor.

D Alcock, A Cowburn 25/Apr/1964.

Ticklists

UK Holiday Plans , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist

Feedback

User Date Notes
Butty 23 Apr Show βeta
βeta: Great route with some airy moves on both pitches. Easy enough route finding and gear where you need it.... Not sure the 2nd pitch is the crux? For me it was the last couple of moves of P1 but maybe I missed something. Abseiled back down to the rucksacks and tat in good condition and the tree is solid.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great route with some airy moves on both pitches. Easy enough route finding and gear where you need it.... Not sure the 2nd pitch is the crux? For me it was the last couple of moves of P1 but maybe I missed something. Abseiled back down to the rucksacks and tat in good condition and the tree is solid.
pete johnson 19 Apr Show βeta
βeta: 40m not 48m as in CC guide. Better done in one pitch.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 40m not 48m as in CC guide. Better done in one pitch.
Siongethinhill 20 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Abseil tat at top of route
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Abseil tat at top of route
Andypeak 13 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Led 2nd pitch
Show beta
βeta: Led 2nd pitch

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Guidebooks for Craig y Castell (Tremadog)

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Noah's Warning

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Dinas Cromlech)

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