UKC

52m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A worthwhile trip up the left-hand side of the buttress. It gets a bit squeezed at the top, hence the name.
1) 5b, 30m. Start up the groove (as for Creagh Dhu Wall) but move left into the steep groove and up it to a roof. Move right and up to the big overhang then traverse out left to get stood on a rib. Above, the main roof beckons, but the moves are perplexing. Pull right, then back left to a small stance below a crack a little higher.
2) 5b, 25m. Cracks and a groove lead to the roof. Pull over the right-hand edge of this, then move left round the arete for an independent finish, or join Creagh Dhu Wall. © Rockfax

Al Evans, S Tansey, S Beresford 01/Jun/1979.

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , Tremadog 2018/2019 , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist

Feedback

User Date Notes
Pete_Frost 2 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: A number 4 Camalot (large silver) is perfect for the quartz crack in the top roof of p1. A small sliver DMM Dragon Cam (Yellow Totem Technical) fits nicely into the hidden crack in the left edge of that roof adding to the protection for the step left on to the sharp rib from the big sloping ledge.
Show beta
βeta: A number 4 Camalot (large silver) is perfect for the quartz crack in the top roof of p1. A small sliver DMM Dragon Cam (Yellow Totem Technical) fits nicely into the hidden crack in the left edge of that roof adding to the protection for the step left on to the sharp rib from the big sloping ledge.
SimonWooden 7 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Owl chics in nest. See Creagh Dhu Wall.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Owl chics in nest. See Creagh Dhu Wall.

Logged Ascents

336 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Craig y Castell (Tremadog)

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 29 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 72
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 69
Votes cast 67
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Girdle Traverse Of The Lower Amphitheatre Wall

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Craig Yr Ysfa)

Loading Notifications...