Rockfax Description
A worthwhile trip up the left-hand side of the buttress. It gets a bit squeezed at the top, hence the name.
1) 5b, 30m. Start up the groove (as for Creagh Dhu Wall) but move left into the steep groove and up it to a roof. Move right and up to the big overhang then traverse out left to get stood on a rib. Above, the main roof beckons, but the moves are perplexing. Pull right, then back left to a small stance below a crack a little higher.
2) 5b, 25m. Cracks and a groove lead to the roof. Pull over the right-hand edge of this, then move left round the arete for an independent finish, or join Creagh Dhu Wall. © Rockfax
Al Evans, S Tansey, S Beresford 01/Jun/1979.
Ticklists
North Wales Rock Graded List , Tremadog 2018/2019 , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 193 | 8 Apr, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: what rock fax describe as an independent finish I the route a done by the first ascent and described in at least 2 guide books which say move around the arete to an exciting finish up the wall . rock fx make it sound like the both endings are equal | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: what rock fax describe as an independent finish I the route a done by the first ascent and described in at least 2 guide books which say move around the arete to an exciting finish up the wall . rock fx make it sound like the both endings are equal |
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| Pete_Frost | 2 Aug, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: A number 4 Camalot (large silver) is perfect for the quartz crack in the top roof of p1. A small sliver DMM Dragon Cam (Yellow Totem Technical) fits nicely into the hidden crack in the left edge of that roof adding to the protection for the step left on to the sharp rib from the big sloping ledge. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: A number 4 Camalot (large silver) is perfect for the quartz crack in the top roof of p1. A small sliver DMM Dragon Cam (Yellow Totem Technical) fits nicely into the hidden crack in the left edge of that roof adding to the protection for the step left on to the sharp rib from the big sloping ledge. |
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| SimonWooden | 7 May, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Owl chics in nest. See Creagh Dhu Wall. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Owl chics in nest. See Creagh Dhu Wall. |
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Guidebooks for Craig y Castell (Tremadog)
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The Grooves
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Cyrn Las (Gyrn Las))