UKC

Restricted Access

Located on private land - there are signs suggesting that access is not allowed but it is belived that these signs are left over from when contractors were carrying out substantial felling and other forestry works in the area in 2018. There are no recent reports of access issues. 

Rockfax Description
Start a few metres right of the keyhole below another pocket a few metres up the cliff. Arrange gear and make a tricky move to get stood in this. Head on up to a bulge and climb this direct. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
I have changed the grade given for this route, old grade votes have been deleted. The "crux" is a perfectly protected 2 hand pull on a huge hold.
The line shown and described in Rockfax is actually Robbin's Nest, this route is about 3 metres to the right - possibly the reason for some of the "overgraded" comments?

Feedback

User Date Notes
SuperLee1985 25 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: I would strongly disagree with the "UKC Logbook Description" of "The "crux" is a perfectly protected 2 hand pull on a huge hold." This sounds more like it is describing Robin's Nest. This route begins below a small round pocket just above head height in which one can place a nut. The crux is to get stood in this pocket but involves pulling on quite small handholds. I wouldn't want to bet on the gear preventing a groudfall if one was to fall from above it.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I would strongly disagree with the "UKC Logbook Description" of "The "crux" is a perfectly protected 2 hand pull on a huge hold." This sounds more like it is describing Robin's Nest. This route begins below a small round pocket just above head height in which one can place a nut. The crux is to get stood in this pocket but involves pulling on quite small handholds. I wouldn't want to bet on the gear preventing a groudfall if one was to fall from above it.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Craig Y Tonnau

Not all climbs at crag may appear in this book 17 users have this on their wishlist

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 36
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 30
Votes cast 32
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Original Route

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Idwal Slabs (aka Cwm Idwal))

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