UKC Logbook - 'Y Gelynen (Severe Finish)'

70m. A satisfying and fitting finale to a great route; a cracking piece of climbing which provides a good alternative finish to Daufaen/White Streak/Condor if the burly charms of Honeysuckle Corner fail to impress.

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User	Date
wilsers	30 Jun	Show βeta βeta: Started 8m below the scramble up to Dorcon, which made the first pitch Severe. First belay was in the niche above the Holly tree. Then climbed Y Gelynen as described, until the Y Borfa ledge, then finished up the last pitch of Bad Reputation. S 4a/b would seem about right for the last pitch.
Show beta βeta: Started 8m below the scramble up to Dorcon, which made the first pitch Severe. First belay was in the niche above the Holly tree. Then climbed Y Gelynen as described, until the Y Borfa ledge, then finished up the last pitch of Bad Reputation. S 4a/b would seem about right for the last pitch.
jonzza	2 Mar	Show βeta βeta: First pitch is definitely longer than the rockfax guide indicates and not too well described. I might say something like this: P1 45m Start up the broken ground to the right of the large overhang until continuous rock is reached, allowing you to make a leftwards rising traverse over said overhang to reach the left edge of the slab, just above the low holly tree. Head straight up, reaching a blunt rib with good gear on its left corner. Move right onto the front of the rib, following it up past another holly tree on your right. Keep going up the crack above and continue for another 10 vertical meters till you reach a small roof and flake to belay.
Show beta βeta: First pitch is definitely longer than the rockfax guide indicates and not too well described. I might say something like this: P1 45m Start up the broken ground to the right of the large overhang until continuous rock is reached, allowing you to make a leftwards rising traverse over said overhang to reach the left edge of the slab, just above the low holly tree. Head straight up, reaching a blunt rib with good gear on its left corner. Move right onto the front of the rib, following it up past another holly tree on your right. Keep going up the crack above and continue for another 10 vertical meters till you reach a small roof and flake to belay.