UKC Logbook - 'Y Gelynen'

58m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A pleasant route that feels a little bold. Start below Dorcon.
1) 30m. Scramble up left to the base of a rib. Move out onto the rib and follow it boldly past a holly tree on the right (possible belay). Carry on to a steeper wall and belay on the flake.
2) 12m. Climb left past an overlap to a slab leading to Y Borfa.
3) 16m. Move diagonally right up easy-angled terrain to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Fine, well-positioned climbing, but most climbers would probably conclude, not unreasonably, that this is climb is very high in the grade, (if not actually Severe 4a). Even by Moelwynion slab standards, the first pitch is run out and may unnerve leaders just breaking into the grade. Quality climbing, sustained at the grade, and worth 3 stars any day....

R Davies, G Williams 27/May/1953.

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , Gwen Moffat: Space Below My Feet , Scrambles & Easy Climbs in Snowdonia

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User	Date		Notes
wilsers	1 Jul	Show βeta βeta: Rather than scramble up to the base of Dorcon it could be better to start from the grassy ledges 8m below and left, then head left towards the rib as soon as possible. Gear is tricky to find but there are 4 or 5 nut placements before you hit the rib itself, lots more if you have tricams. A good first belay stance is the niche above the Holly tree.
Show beta βeta: Rather than scramble up to the base of Dorcon it could be better to start from the grassy ledges 8m below and left, then head left towards the rib as soon as possible. Gear is tricky to find but there are 4 or 5 nut placements before you hit the rib itself, lots more if you have tricams. A good first belay stance is the niche above the Holly tree.
jrobinson	7 Apr, 2023	Show βeta βeta: Learn how to place key-hole nuts like tricams	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Learn how to place key-hole nuts like tricams
Adlarddo	6 May, 2022	Show βeta βeta: Scratchy	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Scratchy
skinne	8 May, 2019	Show βeta βeta: A full rack of the smaller Tri-cams (up to Brown) very useful here.
Show beta βeta: A full rack of the smaller Tri-cams (up to Brown) very useful here.