A classic route that weaves an unlikely line up this fine cliff. Start below the right end of the quartz pavement where an easy grassy ramp leads up and right.
1) 15m. Climb the grassy ramp to a stance.
2) 25m. Climb up 3m to gain the quartzy ledge. Saunter along this to belay under the groove at its left-hand end.
3) 4a, 35m. Climb the groove for 10m then trend right along a crack to reach the tip of the pinnacle. Step left and climb the slab above to finish. © Rockfax
Connoisseur's Classic Rock, Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett, Kirkus Routes, 50 Best HS Routes in the UK., Unusual and Interesting Routes You Must Do VS- E2, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, Best Multi-pitch Severe and Hard Severe, North wales road to ruins HVS, 2016 Targets, Preparation climbs for a Cuillin ridge traverse, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), High Quality Adventure routes, The climbs of Menlove Edwards and Colin Kirkus, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist, Colin Kirkus' routes, The (easy) Welsh Top50 Round
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