Climbs 30
Rocktype Dolerite
Altitude 150m a.s.l
Faces SW

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Craiglug on a sunny day © ephraim

Crag features

A little crag that has a fantastic outlook over the Fife countryside. The left hand side has a few easier offerings whilst the right hand side has limited bouldering and a few harder routes. The grades were painted on the rock at the bottom of each route although many of these have worn off.
Some nice fingery boulder problems, the best so far being 6a wall LH.

The first ascents were recorded by J.Baines and T.Wilkinson in the late 1950's, then G.Farquhar and R.Farquhar in the 1960's.

Approach notes

Upon entering the village of Dairsie take the only turn-off on the north side of the road. Park beside the re-cycling bins across from the primary school. From here walk north, and take the right at the fork, then left up the "Fingask" track (signposted). Craiglug will become apparent and obvious. Follow the edges of the fields to get there avoiding the houses at Craigfoodie. The walk from the re-cycling bins is nice and it only takes 15 minutes. The logical route to the crag is through a field next to an abandoned triangular garden and someone has kindly placed a piece of tube foam on the barbed-wire.

NOTE: Don't park up the Fingask track, or at Craigfoodie as the farmer has been threatening to remove cars with his forklift.

No Access Issues

Update 1/08/2020

Walk in is overgrown, shorts are not a good idea!....lots of nettles , thistles etc. Probably would be good in the spring or autumn.  Took us much longer than 10mins from the bins.


Update 01/02/2021

Most routes are accessible, except for 19, 20, 21, 22. 

Cleared gorse etc around base of crag so you can get right round from left to right. (08/2021). Also cleared gully area of gorse between 13 & 14.5.
cir10 - 18/Aug/21
Graeme Hunter & Doug Lang used this crag for training most Wednesday evenings in the summer during the 60's. The hardest route on the right was an overhang called "Gurgle".
GN Hunter - 21/Jul/21
Spent couple hours here this afternoon, not bad for what it is, rock all pretty sound, area of routes 5-13 had least thorns etc at base so was pretty good for traversing
seanhendo123 - 02/Apr/15
All UKC user has reported that "Just to let you know there is a huge birds nest on 27/26. Think its a buzzards nest an it does have a lot of eggs in it" can we avoid that area until later this year please? Thanks
pebblespanker - 31/Mar/15
If it stays dry when I am off over Xmas I'll pop down and do the two 'XS' routes, checking any fixed gear and get them graded my understanding is they are/were graded around english 5b ish
pebblespanker - 16/Dec/13
Lovely little crag now clean at the base. The hard routes are 24/25, both marked XS+. 24 rock is fairly friable in places, and the lead (as far as I can see) would be a solo up to about 6 or so metres, at which point the climb is pretty much over. Would be nice for these routes to be properly graded/confirmed (I don't have enough experience to do so). 25 is more solid rock but a challenging climb with minimal gear including a rusty and questionable piton.
Blackmud - 13/Dec/13
Done some more clearing so there is now continuous access along the wall; best approach now to the right hand end. Clearing has exposed some lost routes around lines 20, 21. Can the topo for the crag be redrafted to list routes left to right and take in "new" routes? Nettles are dying back - its pretty good.
Shug-van - 03/Oct/13
Nice wee crag with some good routes. The base is pretty clear, but the nettles getting there are a nightmare (up to my knees). If it was to be cleared out a bit it would be fantastic.
hepy - 09/Jun/13
Nice and clear around the base of the crag (thanks, Shug@van!). Getting there required walking through a lot of nettle, though, so wear some heavy trousers if you go. The walk in is otherwise nice. Definitely more than 10 minutes from the primary school. Worth a visit if you live in the area.
ephraim - 02/Jun/13
Have done a bit of careful clearing along base of wall. Can now get access from northern end to the"scarecrow"wall. Also done some clearing at the base of the "gurgle"wall. Paths to these sections clear-make the most of late winter/ early spring before the nettles grow!
Shug-van - 15/Mar/13
I visited the crag today for a bit of a recce and found it wildly overgrown, which is unfortunate as the climbs seem really good. Most seem to be marked, and are fairly obvious. I don't think it is worth visiting for bouldering, but if you're into trad, and own a machete then check this wee crag out, there are certainly enough routes for an afternoon or evenings climbing.
Azwhite - 11/Feb/12
Done a few routes on Craiglug 22/1/2012. Nice crag but so over grown had to fight with thorns to get to base and even then belaying in a bush. You have to walk over private land to get to the base. But the view is amazing but needs a good clean up. Will go back but there are better crags in the area
leewright - 24/Jan/12
Disapointed that the climbs i submitted have been taken down... Given that they dont have name's i was wondering why?
smile - 02/Dec/11
Very nice little crag. The approach was quite hard - very overgrown..., but the climbs are nice, easy and enjoyable. The sunset is absolutely amazing. Good belay anchor on top of Number 10/11.
Stephi - 30/Jun/11
Used to climb here in the second half of the 70s - was veg-free then. Two belay anchors bolted in place a few years ago (?RAF Leuchars). Some careful clearing will free up more climbs without exposing the work. Keep to field edges on approach. Great place on a sunny evening.
Shug-van - 26/Apr/11
This was our Wednesday evening's training venue back in the 1960's. Start at the left and work along to the right. A quick Girdle traverse then the big overhang on the right, we knew it as "The Gurgle" - Grade: Not Easy! Down to the Pub before closing time :-) It was good clean rock and wasn't overgrown back then. Too many indoor climbing walls these days, I suppose.... Graeme Hunter.
GN Hunter - 15/Oct/10
surprisingly nice little crag
amy - 04/Jun/10
Please be discrete in the gardening!
pebblespanker - 25/Jun/09
went there on 24th June and was very over grown may go back and clear things out a litte
konna - 25/Jun/09
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