UKC

26m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A magnificent outing. The crux moves are fierce but can be avoided by some scary monkey business in the upper branches of the oak reducing the grade to E2 5c, but not detracting from the quality. Perhaps best done as one massive pitch.
1) 5a, 10m. Climb an overhanging crack in a large jutting block straight into the Bower.
2) 6a, 16m. Head up the desperate crack springing from the right-hand edge of the Bower to a deep horizontal break (or reach the same place from the tip of the tree). Swing left along the break then climb flutings to the final roof, which is passed spectacularly on superb holds. Glory, glory! © Rockfax

FA. Paul Nunn (2 pts) 1970. FFA John Allen 1975.

Ticklists

Extreme Rock , Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List , World Graded List , Peak Rock/11/Gritstone in the Seventies. , 50 of the Best , The 30 best E3 routes in the UK? , The Froggatt to Black Rocks 3 Star Pilgrimage , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Rockfax Peak Gritstone East (2001) Top 50 , James' Winter Grit ticklist , Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions , John Allen (gritstone) megamix , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , 100 Best Routes on Grit , Rob and Adam’s crush list 2023 , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List

Feedback

User Date Notes
John Kirk 13 Mar, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: My favourite route on grit anywhere.
Show beta
βeta: My favourite route on grit anywhere.
UKB Shark 23 Jan, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Gain crux crack from finger holds above the lip on the right. Superb position thereafter.
Show beta
βeta: Gain crux crack from finger holds above the lip on the right. Superb position thereafter.

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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 13
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 12
Votes cast 12
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Boot Hill

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Cratcliffe Tor)

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