A magnificent outing. The crux moves are fierce but can be avoided by some scary monkey business in the upper branches of the oak reducing the grade to E2 5c, but not detracting from the quality. Perhaps best done as one massive pitch.
1) 5a, 10m. Climb an overhanging crack in a large jutting block straight into the Bower.
2) 6a, 16m. Head up the desperate crack springing from the right-hand edge of the Bower to a deep horizontal break (or reach the same place from the tip of the tree). Swing left along the break then climb flutings to the final roof, which is passed spectacularly on superb holds. Glory, glory! © Rockfax
FA. Paul Nunn (2 pts) 1970. FFA John Allen 1975.
Extreme Rock , Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List , World Graded List , Peak Rock/11/Gritstone in the Seventies. , 50 of the Best , The 30 best E3 routes in the UK? , The Froggatt to Black Rocks 3 Star Pilgrimage , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Rockfax Peak Gritstone East (2001) Top 50 , James' Winter Grit ticklist , Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions , John Allen (gritstone) megamix , Peak District Grit Graded List , Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , 100 Best Routes on Grit , Rob and Adam’s crush list 2023 , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents