A magnificent outing. The crux moves are fierce but can be avoided by some scary monkey business in the upper branches of the oak reducing the grade to E2 5c, but not detracting from the quality. Perhaps best done as one massive pitch.1) 5a, 10m. Climb an overhanging crack in a large jutting block straight into the Bower.2) 6a, 16m. Head up the desperate crack springing from the right-hand edge of the Bower to a deep horizontal break (or reach the same place from the tip of the tree). Swing left along the break then climb flutings to the final roof, which is passed spectacularly on superb holds. Glory, glory! © Rockfax
FA. Paul Nunn (2 pts) 1970. FFA John Allen 1975.
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Grade: E3 5c ***
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