Rockfax Description
A superb hard pitch up the steep headwall. The next feature right is a right-slanting crack springing from a bulge 15m up. Start beneath the line of this crack below a circular recess.
1. 25m 6a Gain the recess through a bulge. Go up and slightly left and climb through the next bulge to the crack. A final hard bulge gains a belay near the end of Carnivore's traverse.
2. 30m 6b Climb the short overhanging wall to a slab beneath a narrow overlap. Turn this on the left and climb the blank wall via a series of small ramps heading right (crux) to a short diagonal crack (and protection!). Move left and up into a groove to a roof and pull out right blindly to a 'thank god' hold. Over a small bulge to a ledge.
3. 50m 5b From the right end of the ledge, pull rightwards onto the wall and climb to easier ground. Finish up mossy rock.
FA D.Cuthbertson, K.Howett (pitch 2 & pitch 3), May 1984 © Rockfax
Dave Cuthbertson.
Extreme Rock , Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes , Scottish Rock Benchmarks , Ultimate Scottish Rock , 100 Worthwhile E7's
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Grade: E7 6b ***
(The Cobbler)