UKC

90m. Starts up climbs Celtic Dawn, then take the excellent steep grey wall to the left of Romantic Reality.
1. 20m 6a Climb Celtic Dawn (E5).
2. 35m 6b/c Climb the grey wall above the stance (small wires), trending leftwards to a good hold, possible to get a “good” sky-hook on another jug 1m up and left of this jug. Step right and make a dynamic move to a positive hold and go right to a crimpy break where a small cam can be placed. Above head up to a long thin roof, followed by a strenuous and technical traverse right using undercuts to gain a flake-line. Climb the flake for a few metres, before more hard moves up and right gain another small roof (more moderate to large cams). Make more hard moves left and up to eventually gain better holds and a slight easing of the angle. Continue up and left to a grassy ledge.
3. 35m 5b Continue up easier ground to the top.

Iain Small & Blair Fyffe 28/Jun/2014.

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Route of Interest
Gone With The Wind

Grade: E7 6b ***
(Creag a' Bhancair)

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