Rockfax Description
90m. Named as it was climbed 100 years to the day after Archduke Franz Ferdinand was assassinated.
1. 20m 6a Climb Celtic Dawn.
2. 35m 6b/c Climb the grey wall above the belay (small wires), trending leftwards to a good jug, good sky-hook on another jug 1m up and left. Step right and make a dynamic move up to a good hold and move right to a crimpy break (small cam), then up to a long thin roof. Make a strenuous and technical traverse right on undercuts to gain a flake-line. Climb this for a few metres, before more hard moves up and right gain another small roof (more medium to large cams). Make more hard moves left and up to gain better holds and a slight easing of the angle. Continue up and left to a grassy ledge.
3. 35m 5b Continue up easier ground to the top.
I.Small, B.Fyffe, 28 Jun 2014 © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Starts up climbs Celtic Dawn, then take the excellent steep grey wall to the left of Romantic Reality.
1. 20m 6a Climb Celtic Dawn (E5).
2. 35m 6b/c Climb the grey wall above the stance (small wires), trending leftwards to a good hold, possible to get a “good” sky-hook on another jug 1m up and left of this jug. Step right and make a dynamic move to a positive hold and go right to a crimpy break where a small cam can be placed. Above head up to a long thin roof, followed by a strenuous and technical traverse right using undercuts to gain a flake-line. Climb the flake for a few metres, before more hard moves up and right gain another small roof (more moderate to large cams). Make more hard moves left and up to eventually gain better holds and a slight easing of the angle. Continue up and left to a grassy ledge.
3. 35m 5b Continue up easier ground to the top.

Iain Small & Blair Fyffe 28/Jun/2014.

Ticklists

Gary Latter's Scottish Rock Ticklist , 4 Star Scottish rock

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