200m, 5 pitches. Good, sustained climbing up the faint crack line between Dubh Loch Monster and King Rat. An awkward crux and some bold sections. Start as for Dubh Loch Monster.

1. Climb cracks as for Dubh Loch Monster but veer right and climb a short crack to a small ledge under a leaning wall with a short corner defining the left end of the King Rat roof (30m, 4c).
2. Step up and use an undercut to gain the leaning wall then make a hard move right to get established in the corner. Move up left into then up a short groove and continue up slightly rightwards to a hidden jug at a steepening. Pull directly over this and a second bulge directly above to a good ledge and in-situ peg on The Prowl (30m, 6a).
3. Step left across the gap, then move up to follow the obvious blind flake and cracks which lead to a small niche below and left of a cracked red wall. Climb the superb wall to a ledge, and continue up the crack until a mossy bulge forces a traverse right to a junction with King Rat and belay below a steep crack (30m, 5c).
4. Climb the steep crack line direct over the right side of the bulging nose on King Rat, to rejoin and follow this to a ledge and belay (40m, 5b).
5. Finish up King Rat (70m, 4c etc).

G Robertson, P Macpherson, 22/Jun/2010.


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Route of Interest
Who Dares Wings it

Grade: E4 5c ***
(Johns heugh)

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