As mentioned in beta there are peregrine nesting on second pitch of Flodden. Please avoid for time being.
Ultimate Scottish Trad Ticklist E1 to E5
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Wil Treasure | 19 May |
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βeta: Lots of good climbing. The line isn\'t always obvious, and the description for p4 is quite specific in the SMC guide. Going direct through the second bulge looked hard, dirty and a little scary. I belayed below it. Traversing left 4m leadsthrough an obvious, easier notch and good climbing rejoins the original line. It looked like others had been this way too. From the left edge of the ledge at the end of p5 I went up the cracks to a steeper section that was a little dorty., stepped left into a corner, up this then traverse up and right over a great mantle move to another corner, with a steep, jiggy exit, and eventually to a good grass ledge and obvious belay. Not sure it was 4b this way! It\'s worth staying ropes up to the top from here, it\'s not trivial for another full rope length. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Lots of good climbing. The line isn't always obvious, and the description for p4 is quite specific in the SMC guide. Going direct through the second bulge looked hard, dirty and a little scary. I belayed below it. Traversing left 4m leadsthrough an obvious, easier notch and good climbing rejoins the original line. It looked like others had been this way too. From the left edge of the ledge at the end of p5 I went up the cracks to a steeper section that was a little dorty., stepped left into a corner, up this then traverse up and right over a great mantle move to another corner, with a steep, jiggy exit, and eventually to a good grass ledge and obvious belay. Not sure it was 4b this way! It's worth staying ropes up to the top from here, it's not trivial for another full rope length. |
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James0101 | 11 Sep, 2023 |
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βeta: wired guide topo on pitch 4 is wrong, the description is correct. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: wired guide topo on pitch 4 is wrong, the description is correct. |
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Grade: E1 5a ***
(Black Dyke Area)