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As mentioned in beta there are peregrine nesting on second pitch of Flodden. Please avoid for time being. 

No description has been contributed for this climb.

Ticklists

Ultimate Scottish Trad Ticklist E1 to E5

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User Date Notes
Wil Treasure 19 May Show βeta
βeta: Lots of good climbing. The line isn\'t always obvious, and the description for p4 is quite specific in the SMC guide. Going direct through the second bulge looked hard, dirty and a little scary. I belayed below it. Traversing left 4m leadsthrough an obvious, easier notch and good climbing rejoins the original line. It looked like others had been this way too. From the left edge of the ledge at the end of p5 I went up the cracks to a steeper section that was a little dorty., stepped left into a corner, up this then traverse up and right over a great mantle move to another corner, with a steep, jiggy exit, and eventually to a good grass ledge and obvious belay. Not sure it was 4b this way! It\'s worth staying ropes up to the top from here, it\'s not trivial for another full rope length.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Lots of good climbing. The line isn't always obvious, and the description for p4 is quite specific in the SMC guide. Going direct through the second bulge looked hard, dirty and a little scary. I belayed below it. Traversing left 4m leadsthrough an obvious, easier notch and good climbing rejoins the original line. It looked like others had been this way too. From the left edge of the ledge at the end of p5 I went up the cracks to a steeper section that was a little dorty., stepped left into a corner, up this then traverse up and right over a great mantle move to another corner, with a steep, jiggy exit, and eventually to a good grass ledge and obvious belay. Not sure it was 4b this way! It's worth staying ropes up to the top from here, it's not trivial for another full rope length.
James0101 11 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: wired guide topo on pitch 4 is wrong, the description is correct.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: wired guide topo on pitch 4 is wrong, the description is correct.

Logged Ascents

53 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Creag an Dubh-loch

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 13
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 12
Votes cast 10
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Talisker

Grade: E1 5a ***
(Black Dyke Area)

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