Climbs 24
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 450m a.s.l
Faces S

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Crag features

Creag Lundie is a series of granite outcrops and slabs that lie on the upper half of the hill of the same name, on the north side of Loch Cluanie. Creag Lundie has a distinct summit (508m) and is a small southern satellite of the munro Carn Ghluasaid. The rocks are granite, and face south and south- east. This aspect means they have good exposure to wind and sunshine and routes can dry quickly. After periods of heavy rain there can be some weeps that take a while to dry out.

The crags are in a fine mountain setting with great views out to the Cluanie and Glenmoriston hills. Driving the main A87, the crags are visible above the road, but the passing motorist has little idea of the scale and number of the crags above. The rock itself is rough, giving excellent friction. Protection is sparse but can be found with a little ingenuity, as many of the runnels are rounded and there are only occasional defined cracks. A range of friends/cams and hexes work well, including large ones. Belays at the top of crags also require care and a degree of ingenuity in places. The style of climbing is slabby for the most part with occasional steep walls or overlaps. Most of the routes fall into the Diff to HVS range. There are

some harder lines with very sparse protection indeed. Some of the routes are a full rope length, and there are a couple that run to a second pitch. There is an entry about the crags in the Northern Highlands South guidebook. This lists nine routes, Lost Knuckle VS 5a on the Main Cliff, Problem Arete 4c on Slab One and seven routes on Slab Three, Small Gutter VD, Crackpot 4a/b, Broken Cracks VD, Low Diagonal 4b, Big Gutter VD, Bald Slab 5b and Wee Baldy 5a. All these routes appear only to have climbed the lower tier, as they are given between 15 and 20 metres. The description for Broken Cracks says “The cracks are 2m right of Small Gutter are of unknown grade but look good”. This is a description that leaves some doubt as to whether it had been climbed. Same perhaps applies to climbs given technical grades only. These climbs may have been done a while ago as in 2014 the cliffs showed little signs of being climbed on, as most lines had moss and lichen growing aplenty. (c) 2018 SMC journal 

Approach notes

Approach: The best approach is to park on the old road, close to a bridge over a stream, above the A87 at NH 145 105. Additional parking is available here on the Loch Cluanie side of the A87. Follow up the east side of the stream heading northeast and the broad ridge that develops (eventually the stream on the left of you is down in a ravine) and continue up towards the summit of Creag Lundie. In 25 minutes you will reach the broad platform, "the Belvedere" that runs eastwards below the upper crags. Approaching from this direction allows first time visitors to orientate themselves in this complex area of crags. An approach from the east is also possible, if you know the area and plan to climb only at the east end. The route goes up to the obvious waterslide/waterfall on the Allt Coire Lundie to the east of Craig Lundie NH 159 111 and thence to the far eastern end of the crags. (c) 2018 SMC journal 

Slab climbers, add this destination to your Scottish road trip!
liensiwel - 01/Aug/22
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Climbs at this crag

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