UKC

45m. Start at toe of lowest small buttress. Climb into the crack, reachy (5a) or use steps to left (4b), and then to heathery ledge. Step up onto left edge of slab above and head up the centre of the slab on friction towards the right trending crack in the wall above. A slightly easier version climbs the fault on the left side (See note below). Climb the committing crack (4c) and then step left onto the very fine upper slab and follow this directly to the highest rocks.
(Note: The Lost Knuckle VS 5a, climbed previously, uses the same boulder problem start and then traverses left along the heather ledge to a V- chimney and then a crack running up the left side of the big slab. The original climb then tackles the same right trending steep crack and finishes to the right onto grass). (c) SMC journal

Chris Dickinson, Adele Pennington 05/Jul/2015.

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Style of Ascent
Lead
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Route of Interest
Butterknife Direct Finish

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Garbh Bheinn)

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