UKC

100m, 3 pitches. Start just right of the gully separating the buttress with this line from the buttress of Reade's Route on the left. Large flakes to belay.
P1. 4 50m From the gully follow a line of open turfy grooves gently rightwards for 25m & then leftwards for 25m to a large stance. The original ascenionists followed a more open rocky groove further right from the initial stance at 5.
P2. 5 30m Move left onto the arĂȘte overlooking the gully to a rib with a crack running down it. This leads to a series of awkward flakes & a stance just below the top. It is also possible to climb up behind the obvious pinnacle, right of the arĂȘte, from the stance into a groove at 4.
P3. 3 20m Climb a groove to the top, traverse easily towards the ridge of Crib Goch & make an awkward but well protected step down to finish.

Owen Samuel & Matt Stygal 29/Nov/2008.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Pete_Frost 4 Jan, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Pitch 1 would be best going all the way to belay in the huge bay below the final pinnacle. Pitch 2 would be best going up the left hand arete of the pinnacle and onwards all the way to the top. There really is gear whenever it is needed on the final pitch. Tricams would be useful if you don\'t trust spring-loaded camming devices in icy rock.
Show beta
βeta: Pitch 1 would be best going all the way to belay in the huge bay below the final pinnacle. Pitch 2 would be best going up the left hand arete of the pinnacle and onwards all the way to the top. There really is gear whenever it is needed on the final pitch. Tricams would be useful if you don't trust spring-loaded camming devices in icy rock.

Logged Ascents

15 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Crib Goch

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 13 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High VI
Mid VI
Low VI
High V
Mid V
Low V
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
Votes cast 6
High 6
Mid 6
Low 6
High 5
Mid 5
Low 5
High 4
Mid 4
Low 4
Votes cast 8
Votes cast 7
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Onsighted
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Devil's Staircase

Grade: V 6 ***
(Devils Kitchen (Cwm Idwal) - (Clogwyn y Geifr))

Loading Notifications...