UKC

Restricted Access

A very nice crag with a popular non-tidal upper tier and well-featured rock.

There is a large colony of Herring Gulls which are now on the "red list" of endangered species in the UK, on the mid-height ledge in Spring - early summer,  climbers are requested to avoid this section (see details below) as there is now an agreed seasonal restriction on this venue.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

There are likely to be a number of gulls and chicks during the nesting season on the half-way ledge of B-Team Buttress. At least 18 pairs of Herring gulls are known to nest here, making it one of the most important single sites for Herring gulls on this coastline. Please avoid during 1st March to 31st July.  Routes affected are: 'Cloud Nine, Hang Ten' to 'CDM' on lower tier (routes 6-11 in CC guide) and 'Snap, Popple and Crack' to 'The Jogger' on the upper tier (routes 16-28).  The gulls would make the climbing experience fairly unpleasant so better to choose another crag at this time of year. 

(There are also agreed seasonal restrictions on the adjacent crag of Seaside Gully - see details under this crag)

43m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A big route up the impressive west-facing wall of Crickmail starting from the ledge at its base.
1) 5c, 25m. Climb up to the overhang and then move up leftwards to below a small roof. Pull over and up then step right into a grove which leads to the break under a big roof. Traverse left then pull over and climb a shallow groove to a belay on the right.
2) 5a, 18m. Climb diagonally leftwards to a break then go straight up the wall above on sharp holds. © Rockfax

FA. M.Fowler, C.Heard, G.Lewis, B.Wyvill 04/May/1980.

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Route of Interest
Trevallen Pillar

Grade: E4 6a ***
(Trevallen Cliff)

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