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Ring Ouzels are reported to be nesting on Flying Buttress. Please avoid this and adjacent routes.

from 14/06/2023 to 01/07/2023

Adders are frequently seen around Curbar. They are often very well camoflaged so it's worth keeping an eye out when moving into new areas, picking up kit etc as a bite, although not life threatening to most healthy adults can still be nasty.

Ticks are abundant due to a large population of red deer. take care, particularly if passing through bracken below the crag.

9m.

Rockfax Description
Take the right-trending line of polished holds that steepen. Escape off right under the Bel Ami tower. Originally the route finished up the loose groove on the left - this is best avoided. © Rockfax

FA. Chuck Cook 1948.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List , Eastern Peak Grit 100 VD- VS

Feedback

User Date Notes
Benj-m 21 Mar, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Upper section is rotten - lots of scars where rock has broken away. Gear placements gone and holds look like they could break off - Escaped on to the vs next door which is nicer. Avoid if S is your max grade!
Show beta
βeta: Upper section is rotten - lots of scars where rock has broken away. Gear placements gone and holds look like they could break off - Escaped on to the vs next door which is nicer. Avoid if S is your max grade!
Darron 6 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Best to finish up the Bel Ami tower which then gives a varied, satisfying, route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Best to finish up the Bel Ami tower which then gives a varied, satisfying, route.
hanncoom 18 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Slightly harder for shorter climbers, trust your feet!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Slightly harder for shorter climbers, trust your feet!
Jonnaylor 23 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Top pitch "suspect flake" broken off a couple of years ago, now tough little problem to finish off otherwise easy route - probably 5a move!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Top pitch "suspect flake" broken off a couple of years ago, now tough little problem to finish off otherwise easy route - probably 5a move!
paulaspey 21 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Dodgy flake in the upper section now broken and gone. Original upper corner can now by climbed but much more difficult than Severe. Needs a big cam to protect it.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Dodgy flake in the upper section now broken and gone. Original upper corner can now by climbed but much more difficult than Severe. Needs a big cam to protect it.
Simon Caldwell 12 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I think the flake on the second half of the route is quite dangerous and liable to come off sometime soon - it moved noticably when I pulled on it (just before retreating rapidly!) The first part (ie the original route) is quite awkward for the grade and felt more like HS 4a (good gear but it's below your feet on the crux)
βeta?
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βeta: I think the flake on the second half of the route is quite dangerous and liable to come off sometime soon - it moved noticably when I pulled on it (just before retreating rapidly!) The first part (ie the original route) is quite awkward for the grade and felt more like HS 4a (good gear but it's below your feet on the crux)
AaronB 11 Aug, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Seemed an easy route but not so fun when it starts to rain halfway up the initial slab! My second twice slid off the second half of the route....
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Seemed an easy route but not so fun when it starts to rain halfway up the initial slab! My second twice slid off the second half of the route....

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
Votes cast 59
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 58
Votes cast 58
Style of Ascent
Lead
Soloed
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Black Hawk Hell Crack

Grade: S 4a ***
(Stanage Popular)

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