Upload an image for this crag

Climbs 36
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 200m a.s.l
Faces SW

Crag features

A rejuvinated mixed 'Trad' and 'Sport' sandstone crag.

Routes up to 20m in length.

Many aretes and corners.

A genuine Winter venue, because it faces south, gets any sunshine and does not seep.

Approach notes

About 7 miles north of M4 J28 on the A467.

Turn towards  'Cwmcarn Forest Drive' at the roundabout with the mountain bike art work.

First left takes you into Cwmcarn. At the Cwmcarn pub/post office, turn R into Park St. Then take the third L to a parking spot (not outside houses).

A footpath on the corner leads to a lane between garages, enter the woods and follow the left fork uphill (100m) into the quarry.

Good little crag, well bolted and will clean up nicely with traffic.
Mthr - 26/Feb/22
11/2/22 - Two main faces were dry minus minimal seepage in Archaeopteryx's crack (didn't affect the climb). Top right tier was too wet to climb - probably because it doesn't receive any sunlight. Great day out!
malcolm_stewart - 11/Feb/22
The description is a bit misleading. Came in January and it definitely DOES seep in places.
PaulJepson - 09/Jan/22
Northbound on Newport Road (Cwmcarn) turn right into Park Street. Take the second of two very minor lanes on the left. Park considerately before reaching the junction of Wood Street. Walk uphill on a mud track through the garages and trending leftwards very steeply uphill for 50m. Do not attempt to climb here unless you intend on bringing, a static rope, ascenders, gloves, crow bar, secateurs, hammer, pegs, a lot of time and a good life insurance policy.
Esoterical - 11/May/09
parked up and walked between the garages along the back of some houses access road (where the bins are kept etc). continued left and up (parrallel with the road below and wandered on. did not find the crag...must be quite small as all of the land seems to slope gradually. will try to find it in the winter again when the leaves clear away. will take some photos when i get there.
Drunken_Springbok - 10/May/09
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Name Grade Stars Type Logs Partner Ascents
Please Login or Register to log routes or add them to your wishlist
These climbs you have climbed clean.
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by a UKC volunteer Esoterical

Loading Notifications...