Rockfax Description
Simply amazing. It has three pitches that are hard, the final of which is stunning.
1) and 2) As for Subsidiary Grooves.
3) 5c, 18m. From the belay, move right past the groove of Lubyanka and climb the next groove - all very technical and sustained - then traverse left to the triangular ledge belay on Lubyanka or combine with the next pitch for cleaner ropework.
4) 6a, 17m. From the right-hand end of the ledge make a mind-bending move to gain the hanging groove in the arete. Follow this with difficulty to a good ledge and another shared belay over on the left on a good spike.
5) 5c, 40m. The big one. Move up the slab above heading right below the big overhang/diagonal groove. Move right along here, stepping down slightly near the arete where the groove becomes more vertical. Regain the now-overhanging groove and bridge up in the most spectacular of positions until it eases into a slab. Continue on to a good belay above. © Rockfax


Extreme Rock, Top Five Pass E4's, North Wales Rock Graded List, Good E4s, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, UK Lonely Leads, Ultimate E4 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Billg's 2017 sweepstake list, Definitive *** Llanberis


User Date Notes
treesrockice 10 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Would recommend linking P 3&4 if you have the guns, belaying off left was a bit faffy.
Show beta
βeta: Would recommend linking P 3&4 if you have the guns, belaying off left was a bit faffy.

Logged Ascents

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High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 26
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 25
Votes cast 24
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Astoroth Direct

Grade: E4 6a ***
(Clogwyn yr Eryr (Crafnant))
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