UKC

18m. "A leftwards-rising line on the steep wall right of Monorail, which deliberately steers away from inferior rock up right. 'Full-on' throughout; technical to start, pumpy to finish. In-situ gear can be supplemented with a few small cams and a couple of small/med. wires (black tricam also used on FA). Climb with difficulty to a pocket hold (peg) and continue with further difficulty to a ledge, in-situ thread out right. Rock up left into a niche. Continue on a slightly leftwards line (peg, best threaded with a short sling) and use a ragged hole to make a long reach for holds at the top of the wall. Move left and mantle over. Tree belays set back. (FA was not on-sight, it involved both heavy pre-practice and also crux area gear pre-placed by soloing up above a bouldering mat and jumping off - the route awaits a better style of ascent...!)".

FA. S.Wooster 10/May/2018.

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Route of Interest
Devonshire Cream - Flo Rida

Grade: E6 6a ***
(Anstey's Cove)

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