23m.
A short but powerful and commiting line on positive holds, through the steepest part of the roof that overlooks the base of the Eastern Face.
Climb up vegetated tiers to a belay on the balcony beneath the roof. Load the lower break with gear. Start with hands in the break at the RHS. Move along left, and up to the next hand rail. Move up powerfully, past the protruding detached horn (which has been tested) to the narrow crack that splits the lip of the roof. Finish easily up the slab above.
Led ground up, Mike Roberts P1, Martin Giblin P2
Climb up vegetated tiers to a belay on the balcony beneath the roof. Load the lower break with gear. Start with hands in the break at the RHS. Move along left, and up to the next hand rail. Move up powerfully, past the protruding detached horn (which has been tested) to the narrow crack that splits the lip of the roof. Finish easily up the slab above.
Led ground up, Mike Roberts P1, Martin Giblin P2
Mike Roberts (P1), Martin Giblin (P2) 15/Apr/2023.
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Route of Interest
Equipoise (old trad version)
Grade: E4 6a ***
(Berry Head Quarry)