20m.
An alternative, eliminate, bold start for Sabre Tooth. Pull up onto a ledge under the right- hand, slabby side of the Just out of Reach arête). Balance up on the RH side of the arête (vital twisted wire in small pocket just right) to bigger holds and a horizontal break above. Move straight up and join Sabre Tooth at its fang, and finish direct up the hanging arete staying as direct as possible, left of the corner of Sabre Tooth Direct, spanning the arete finishing on the jug right on the top corner of the arete. Note that this line is distinct from the obvious diagonal crack (Sabre Tooth Direct) in the left wall which is not used (including for protection).
Martin Crocker, Matt Goater 06/Nov/2022.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| misterb | 2 Feb |
Show βeta
βeta: Staying direct on the upper arete is not 4c , using the holds 4 or 5 foot left probably is. The Climbing on the lower arete is the highlight | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Staying direct on the upper arete is not 4c , using the holds 4 or 5 foot left probably is. The Climbing on the lower arete is the highlight |
||||
Logged Ascents
6 users have logged this
Guidebooks for Daddyhole Upper Cliff
Not all climbs at crag may appear in this book
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Route of Interest
Mega Quark
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Holwell Quarry)