50m, 3 pitches. The well protected low level traverse of the Eastern face.
Good quality rock in the main and comfy stances make this a fun proposition
Standard rack will suffice if led in 2 or 3 pitches, double cams in most sizes up to blue DMM dragon and 16 draws would be necessary if leading in one monster pitch, rope drag would be likely!
P1 HVS 5a
Start up a small slab and gain the corner of Romeo and Juliet, move diagonally right up the blocky ledges and cross the arete of Anthony and Cleopatra on good holds (good wire) step on to the big ledge and move into Ramshackles groove. Step down a few feet to a line of small holds and hand traverse these into the blocky red ledge of sunshine playroom, carry on hand traversing this until you can step up at it's right hand end and belay on the good thread and wires on the left wall of sabre tooth
P2 5b
Step down level with the horizontal crack under the mini roof (good cams, thread) and crimp/ jam your way rightwards in an exciting position to the easing of space and time. Carry on hand traversing the blocky ledges until stepping up at the arete, belay in the good crack of planet ride
P3 5a/b
Move right on good holds and then down climb brass bound crack for 6 feet to the small horizontal crack, bravely turn the arete using this and finish easily up ebulius Williams

Lee Hogarth and Nick Baron 24/Apr/2025.

Feedback Always Hide βeta

1 users have logged this