UKC

Restricted Access

There is no formal access to the quarry, there are signs discouraging access at the entrance.  Climbing has taken place in the quarry since the mid 1980’s.

There are some access guidelines to follow to maintain the status quo.

On no account must any of the clifftop be used to access the crag at any time.  The land at the top of the cliff is private land all the way from Almark garage through to the old gate on Dale Road.  All equipping and re-equipping of routes can easily be done from the quarry floor by using existing bolts and anchors.

At present the route in the main corner called Future in Ruins should be avoided.  Despite representation from the BMC a  local resident continues to deposit garden waste down the cliff at this point.

If items of garden waste are thrown down the corner and do present a hazard then politely inform the resident that there are people below.  If there are any issues please do not antagonise the situation, please also inform the local access rep/crag moderator.

 

 

 

2 pitches. A two pitch rising traverse of the main wall.
Pitch 1
Start up the slope right of Higher Ominous bush where the break almost reaches the ground. Follow the rising break leftwards clipping bolts above the break on every routes you pass to reach a belay above Autist or Artist.
Pitch 2
Continue along the break around the small corner, step up to the next break and follow this until just past Handy Wallhole. Step up again to the next break and stride across to reach Passion Wagon. This section is part of Ascent of the Underground.
A further step up gains a good ledge and belay station. Lower off from here and belay from the ground to avoid the garbage chute.
Helmet essential.

Marc Bellingall P1, Tim Banton P2 08/Jun/2025.

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High 6c
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Route of Interest
Megalithic Man

Grade: 6b+ ***
(Horseshoe Quarry)

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