UKC

Restricted Access

There is no formal access to the quarry, there are signs discouraging access at the entrance.  Climbing has taken place in the quarry since the mid 1980’s.

There are some access guidelines to follow to maintain the status quo.

On no account must any of the clifftop be used to access the crag at any time.  The land at the top of the cliff is private land all the way from Almark garage through to the old gate on Dale Road.  All equipping and re-equipping of routes can easily be done from the quarry floor by using existing bolts and anchors.

At present the route in the main corner called Future in Ruins should be avoided.  Despite representation from the BMC a  local resident continues to deposit garden waste down the cliff at this point.

If items of garden waste are thrown down the corner and do present a hazard then politely inform the resident that there are people below.  If there are any issues please do not antagonise the situation, please also inform the local access rep/crag moderator.

 

 

 

From behind the tree at the top of the slope.
Direct to the break via the vague crack the step left to tackle the easier upper wall.

Tim Banton 22/Jun/2025.

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Guidebooks for Dale Quarry (Wirksworth)

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High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Route of Interest
Carls Walk Pool

Grade: 6a+ ***
(Stoney Middleton)

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