UKC

Restricted Access

There is no formal access to the quarry, there are signs discouraging access at the entrance.  Climbing has taken place in the quarry since the mid 1980’s.

There are some access guidelines to follow to maintain the status quo.

On no account must any of the clifftop be used to access the crag at any time.  The land at the top of the cliff is private land all the way from Almark garage through to the old gate on Dale Road.  All equipping and re-equipping of routes can easily be done from the quarry floor by using existing bolts and anchors.

At present the route in the main corner called Future in Ruins should be avoided.  Despite representation from the BMC a  local resident continues to deposit garden waste down the cliff at this point.

If items of garden waste are thrown down the corner and do present a hazard then politely inform the resident that there are people below.  If there are any issues please do not antagonise the situation, please also inform the local access rep/crag moderator.

 

 

 

Rockfax Description
The corner moving left to join Steampunk. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The open groove/ corner is climbed direct to the ledge and overlap from where Steampunk can be joined and followed to its belay.

Geoff Hornby, Mark Turnbull 1990.

Ticklists

The "I live in West Yorkshire and have a rockfax digital subscription" 7's sport bible

Feedback

User Date Notes
Stoney Boy 21 Nov, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Geoff climbed to the old 5th bolt and finished up the E2 at E4 6b. The new finish into Steampunk was climbed as described here by Chris Plant.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Geoff climbed to the old 5th bolt and finished up the E2 at E4 6b. The new finish into Steampunk was climbed as described here by Chris Plant.
193 16 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Re bolted and climbed , cleaned up but a few more ascents will help and it will become a decent route .
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Re bolted and climbed , cleaned up but a few more ascents will help and it will become a decent route .

Logged Ascents

16 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Dale Quarry (Wirksworth)

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Voting
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
Votes cast 7
Votes cast 6
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Onsighted
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
White Gold

Grade: 7a+ ***
(Chee Dale Lower)

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