Restricted Access
There is no formal access to the quarry, there are signs discouraging access at the entrance. Climbing has taken place in the quarry since the mid 1980’s.
There are some access guidelines to follow to maintain the status quo.
On no account must any of the clifftop be used to access the crag at any time. The land at the top of the cliff is private land all the way from Almark garage through to the old gate on Dale Road. All equipping and re-equipping of routes can easily be done from the quarry floor by using existing bolts and anchors.
At present the route in the main corner called Future in Ruins should be avoided. Despite representation from the BMC a local resident continues to deposit garden waste down the cliff at this point.
If items of garden waste are thrown down the corner and do present a hazard then politely inform the resident that there are people below. If there are any issues please do not antagonise the situation, please also inform the local access rep/crag moderator.
Rockfax Description
Climb the bulging wall left of Name not Known above the filled in railway tunnel © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Climbs the bulging wall left of Name not Known above the filled in railway tunnel.
Dominic & Daniel Lee. Both led. 02/Oct/2019.
Ticklists
Pyramid to 8a+ , The "I live in West Yorkshire and have a rockfax digital subscription" 7's sport bible
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| dominic lee | 10 Jul, 2024 |
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βeta: Hold reinstated by Dan. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Hold reinstated by Dan. |
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| Keith Sharples | 3 Jun, 2023 |
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βeta: A significant element of the small but crucial right-hand crimp between the 4th and 5th bolt departed company today - a smaller and more sloping section of the hold is all that remains. That section, the set-up for the crux - will now be considerably harder as a result. The broken bit was rescued and has been placed in the hole at the start of the route for repairs. It's been wrapped in light brown grease-proof paper for easy of identification. No plans to return for the foreseeable so if anyone in the area with prerequisite skills and resin then knock yourselves out... | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: A significant element of the small but crucial right-hand crimp between the 4th and 5th bolt departed company today - a smaller and more sloping section of the hold is all that remains. That section, the set-up for the crux - will now be considerably harder as a result. The broken bit was rescued and has been placed in the hole at the start of the route for repairs. It's been wrapped in light brown grease-proof paper for easy of identification. No plans to return for the foreseeable so if anyone in the area with prerequisite skills and resin then knock yourselves out... |
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| Seb Grieve | 30 Aug, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: 28/8/22 The belay has been improved by adding 2 maillons and rings but still needs a long maillon to replace the steel carabiner. We decided not to add a lower bot since this would be in the same bit of rock as the 1st. Also glued and up 2 wobbly holds including the crucial juggy side pull you clip the 4th and 5th bolt off. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: 28/8/22 The belay has been improved by adding 2 maillons and rings but still needs a long maillon to replace the steel carabiner. We decided not to add a lower bot since this would be in the same bit of rock as the 1st. Also glued and up 2 wobbly holds including the crucial juggy side pull you clip the 4th and 5th bolt off. |
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| FaffmasterG | 13 Jun, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Good climbing but some of the rock is pretty suspect. A big boulder came off the upper section as I climbed past, wasn\'t using it as either a foot or hand hold so just came off when I knocked out with my passing foot. Its likely that more of the rock in the upper section may come off before long too as it looks like it could go in places, though didn\'t come across any other obviously loose blocks | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Good climbing but some of the rock is pretty suspect. A big boulder came off the upper section as I climbed past, wasn't using it as either a foot or hand hold so just came off when I knocked out with my passing foot. Its likely that more of the rock in the upper section may come off before long too as it looks like it could go in places, though didn't come across any other obviously loose blocks |
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| steepstuff | 10 Aug, 2020 |
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βeta: Excellent! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Excellent! |
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| Keith Sharples | 2 Aug, 2020 |
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βeta: Start now a little harder after loosing big foothold last weekend. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Start now a little harder after loosing big foothold last weekend. |
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| JamieSparkes | 7 Oct, 2019 |
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βeta: Excellent find, with a tough crux, challenging start and spooky finale to boot. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Excellent find, with a tough crux, challenging start and spooky finale to boot. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Dale Quarry (Wirksworth)
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Indecent Exposure (with tree)
Grade: 7b+ ***
(Raven Tor (Miller's Dale))