UKC

Restricted Access

There is no formal access to the quarry, there are signs discouraging access at the entrance.  Climbing has taken place in the quarry since the mid 1980’s.

There are some access guidelines to follow to maintain the status quo.

On no account must any of the clifftop be used to access the crag at any time.  The land at the top of the cliff is private land all the way from Almark garage through to the old gate on Dale Road.  All equipping and re-equipping of routes can easily be done from the quarry floor by using existing bolts and anchors.

At present the route in the main corner called Future in Ruins should be avoided.  Despite representation from the BMC a  local resident continues to deposit garden waste down the cliff at this point.

If items of garden waste are thrown down the corner and do present a hazard then politely inform the resident that there are people below.  If there are any issues please do not antagonise the situation, please also inform the local access rep/crag moderator.

 

 

 

Rockfax Description
An odd half pitch on the upper left-hand side of the wall. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Start from a 2 bolt belay 2/3 of the way up the wall to the left of Handy Wallhole. Past a bolt and peg direct to top.

Geoff Hornby 21/Aug/1991.

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Guidebooks for Dale Quarry (Wirksworth)

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Route of Interest
Calvary

Grade: E4 6a ***
(Stanage Plantation)

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