Rockfax Description
A great test of nerve and ability; protection is adequate. Start up a crack then swing out left and make a fierce mantel to reach a creaky flake. Up this then move left up a shallow scoop to a ledge (crucial small cams). Layback up and teeter right, or move right and climb the headwall direct - a bit harder. © Rockfax

FA. Gabe Regan 1976

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Great Wall Climbs of the UK, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Good E4s, World Graded List, Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties, 50 of the Best, Ultimate E4 ticklist, 20 For 2017, James' Winter Grit ticklist, Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50, 3 Star Stanage, Definitive *** Peak Grit.

Hidden 14/Oct TR β
Ollie B 14/Oct Lead RP

Couldnt work out the mantel move so had a play on TR and did clean. Mantel is the hardest move by far!

with Robyn
mrteale 01/Sep Lead G/U

Messed up the mantel on the onsight. Quite poor conditions meant the traverse in was very pumpy! Great route but I slightly spoilt the experience by getting the mega fear at the top by somehow missing the huge ledge ( presuming it was off-route) and resting on some dirty crimps for ages while i fiddled in some marginal gear (already placed the bomber cam I needed lower down). Keen to repeat this in better style as the climbing is great.

with Shannon
climberchristy 24/Aug Lead rpt

Really pleased to do this clean again first go. Just as good as I remembered it. What an amazing route.

with LMS
LMS 24/Aug 2nd dog

way way too hard for me ATM, laughed my way up it as was doing so badly, very tight rope from Christy after he'd breezed up it..impressive! but a great climb if you operate at this level.

Ben Bransby 22/May Lead
beni 22/Apr Lead dog
Tom Bennell 03/Apr Lead
Dan Arkle ??/2017 -
JBO 27/Dec/16 Lead O/S

Had a little bit of gear beta to make sure I wasn't going to miss anything crucial but all the climbing was onsight, found the mantel straightforward but the headwall quite fluttery!

WB 18/Dec/16 Lead O/S
markalmack 18/Dec/16 Lead O/S
td72 02/Nov/16 Lead O/S

Great climbing, protection isn't that bad and all the hard moves are covered mantel is hard but not too bad. Still has a bold feel to it though, red totem cam ( 0.25 i think) fitted into the cam placement up top perfectly and felt pretty bomber.

with Katie
Hidden 25/Oct/16 TR
RM199 25/Oct/16 TR dog
Andy Moles 24/Oct/16 Lead β

Mantel isn't too bad if you get it right and the rest is steady for the grade, but not a route to take lightly. Some dubious advice about the 'bomber' gear below, I'd recommend taking a selection of small cams and preferably not testing them. Obviously really good though.

with Sam Harvie
David Roscoe 13/Jul/16 Lead RP

A tremendous heart thumper! Found the mantle really tough, and the rest exciting & brilliant climbing. Wot a ROUTE!!

with Pete Lancaster
GwilymR 02/Jul/16 Lead G/U

First E4!! Was hard and scary

with Jammy
Adam Willison 28/May/16 Lead

First E4 6A, not as hard as I thought it'd be, need to get on harder stuff soon!💪🏻

Marcus Wright 28/May/16 2nd

Did this clean on a second. Just need to go back for the lead

Kipper-Phil Smith 26/May/16 Lead RP

What a fantastic climb, one of the best routes you could ever hope to do anywhere. So happy !!!!

with Roscoe
MSchobitz 20/May/16 Lead dnf

Started raining, one to come back for.

Hidden 23/Apr/16 2nd
Hidden 23/Apr/16 Lead O/S
Dave Warburton 17/Apr/16 Lead O/S

Didn't have correct cam for the top.

FlavioL1989 10/Apr/16 Lead O/S

Go and do 'Dark Continent' first to get an idea of the kind of mantle required, but this one is further, harder and scarier! Tricam save the day again. First E4 of whats going to be a good climbing year.

Benjamin Mitchell 25/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with Sam Marks
dom94 03/Oct/15 Lead G/U

Fell off on the mantle crux, but once I did it the rest of the route was climbed onsight

with Eloise
Neal Jobling 11/Aug/15 Lead RP

Well pleased to tick off my first E4, took quite a few attempts and falls working out the mantel move.

with Bryan61
bryan61 11/Aug/15 2nd RP
Neal Jobling 04/Aug/15 TR RP
with Andy Burr
Louishmouis 23/May/15 Lead O/S
with Felix
Tom.Priestley 26/Apr/15 2nd dog

Crazy mantle

Scott Quinn 26/Apr/15 Lead G/U

fell at the mantle three times lowered and climbed clean on my fourth attempt the vital small friend is a 0.3 / 0.4 dragon or camalot both would be bomber.

cacheson 06/Apr/15 2nd dog

That mantle is nails! After flopping my way up that I found the rest not too taxing and really enjoyable!

Liam Ingram 05/Apr/15 2nd dog

Amazing route. Very hard mantle crux but the rest seemed reasonably steady.

with Josh Williams
Andy Peak 1 02/Apr/15 Lead G/U

Fantastic felt so steady! time for more e4s

with Tom Martin
BillyRidal 18/Jan/15 Lead RP

Would have gone for the onsight but I top roped it a few years ago. Fantastic climb though, the first time I have actually used twin ropes.

phil64 ??/2015 -
bencole 03/Dec/14 Lead RP

Had to chuck a top rope down this after about 8 falls on ground up attempts on two separate trips, the mantle feels nails to me, nice and steady for the rest of the route.

with Dad
Hidden 19/Oct/14 Lead RP
mop449 12/Oct/14 2nd β

Incredible route.

phillipwright 12/Oct/14 Lead RP

What a great climb, would repeat again

with mop449
will9911 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Jul/14 TR
climberchristy 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S

What a great route! My second E4 onsight and what a belter! Protection is surprisingly good bearing in mind the guide calls it a 'classic gritstone frightener' and all of it can be placed from relatively comfortable positions'

with bencole
The old James turnbull 13/Mar/14 Lead
dominic lee 01/Mar/14 Lead rpt
with dave turnbull
Dave Turnbull, BMC 01/Mar/14 2nd

poor style, shoulder not right yet

with Dominic Lee
spidermonkey09 16/Feb/14 Lead O/S

Awesome, first E4. So chuffed with this, mantel was hard but the move at the top from the good hold felt hard as well. Held it together topping out on slopey pinchey holds. Super pumped! Size 1 friend is the one you need!

TRFrost ??/2014 2nd dog
with J. Hulbert
rurp 12/Nov/13 Lead

One fall, one preplaced bit of gear. A tainted ascent but one I am very proud of since I couldn't do it on a top rope. Thanks bill

tim newton 05/Oct/13 Lead G/U

fell off the mantel first go, quite a swing...nearly took out Will! Lowered, pulled the ropes and did the route 2nd go.

Dan Bates 27/Sep/13 -
Andy Peak 1 20/Sep/13 Lead dnf

Cud not do the top slab used to much energy on the bottom part!

marcduhig 08/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Haydn
Haydn Jones 31/Aug/13 Lead O/S

had no gear for the top moves fashioned something together that i didn't want to even sit on the just went for it, brilliant route!

with deacon, duncan
Hidden 18/Aug/13 TR O/S
Hidden 02/Aug/13 Lead
Hidden 31/May/13 2nd dog
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ?/May/13 Lead O/S
with Benno Wagner
w.pettet-smith 18/Feb/13 Lead

went up with first gear at top of easy start in place. onsight apart from that, absolutely amazing climbing. it just keeps coming at you! i now realise the handful of other grit e4s i've done where soft.

with sean
mikeski ?/Nov/12 Lead O/S
sparkass 27/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with Rob Lovatt
jgordon75 13/Oct/12 TR

Drove up from London with fair forecast, heavy rain started in the car park. Climb dripping with water. Got crux 3rd attempt to salvage something from the day

with Oli Knight
Andy Peak 1 01/Sep/12 2nd
with Andrew Deckon
deacondeacon 01/Sep/12 Lead

Fell off the rockover then lead. First proper E4. (Ground up)

barni 26/Aug/12 TR rpt
Apharri 16/Apr/12 Lead O/S
john lynch 16/Apr/12 2nd O/S

top class.

with adam harrison
Sean Kelly 24/Mar/12 TR dnf

Failed on the mantle!

with Simon ?, Mark Scramm
Simon Allcock 24/Mar/12 TR dnf
mark schramm 24/Mar/12 TR dog

1 rest

with si
Hidden 01/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Mar/12 2nd O/S
wi11 16/Jan/12 Lead RP
with Marcus, Nat
Bob ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 Lead β
quiffhanger 20/Nov/11 Lead O/S

A little apprehensive as hadn't climb grit or trad for a while but after backing off the mantle first go, went pretty easily. Top crux felt easy and pretty safe with a couple of small cams.

wi11 12/Nov/11 Lead dnf

Found the mantle easy, moving left took some time and then had placed the "crucial small friend" as my first runner so frigged some gear in the break and after an age went for it but fell...defiantly one to come back for!

with Meg
roberto18 16/Oct/11 Lead O/S

First E4 and probably the best single pitch climb i've done. Very exciting moves at the top!!

with Dad (Mike Bridges)
mike bridges 16/Oct/11 2nd

Top lead by Rob!he literally ran up the 1st section and completed the mantlshelf on pure adrenaline!,suitably rested he cruised up the next section to the ledge,bit of gear in, then "went" for the top. his best onsight to date. I on the other hand struggled like mad on the mantleshelf,(just not supple enough)and was pumped for the next section,and glad to reach the ledge and a rest,then just managed to top out clean,fingers uncurling with every move.Great climb,4 stars.

pipof747 13/Oct/11 Lead RP

happy i didn't try on sight, was still a bit damp. Hard mantle

Hidden ?/Sep/11 Lead O/S
akhughes 17/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Jul/11 Lead
Jack Loftus 27/Jul/11 2nd dog
with Nick
Hidden 25/May/11 Lead O/S
JRae 24/May/11 Lead

Stunning.. Led after Paul.

with P Latham
thomasadixon 08/May/11 Lead β

Tried first but couldn't commit, came back down then led it after Mike. Well chuffed, wicked route.

with Mike
billb 30/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Brilliant! managed to get 3 rps in the final break which I think would have just about held a fall. Pretty gripping at the top..

Rachel Slater 27/Mar/11 2nd β
bigie bob 13/Mar/11 Lead O/S
C coldwell-storry 01/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Adam Gill
mwatson ??/2011 -
masonwoods101 ??/2011 Lead O/S

onsight! first e4 as well. amazing moves. crux move pumped me out so badly (even after the good rest) i climbed to the top shaking like hell with only the gear before the crux below me! intense times! bomber 0.5 cam though!

uphillnow ??/2011 -
jfane ??/2011 Lead O/S
phil64 ??/2011 -
Hannes B 19/Nov/10 Lead O/S
with Sam M, Rik
hamish2016 13/Nov/10 Lead O/S

Sweet move off the undercut but I think the mantelshelf near the start is the crux.

with John Brannock
Brannock 13/Nov/10 2nd
highlux 17/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Been waiting for this one for a while. Classic climb and didn't think the pro was too bad. Found the mantle to be the single hardest move.

Si dH 16/Oct/10 2nd dog

The crux rockover/mantel near the start took me two goes, the rest was just about ok, although I couldn't feel much and it was going dark. Really good route, good lead by Neil on a lot of small gear.

with Neil Furniss
Dogmusher 22/Aug/10 2nd
with Marc Weisner
Jethro ?/Aug/10 Lead
Andrew Barker 29/Jul/10 Lead O/S

A brilliant route, been wanting to do this for years. I found the mantel the hardest bit but it felt well-protected. The finish was fine once I committed but I was a little worried by the gear in the break! Climbed the direct finish up the headwall.

Hidden 24/Jul/10 2nd
chris sm 24/Jul/10 2nd O/S
jacobjacob 20/Jun/10 Lead O/S

thought I was gonna die. very fiddly gear to place.

Tez29 28/May/10 Lead RP

Fell from the crux on the flash...just! Got 2nd go. Brilliant.

with Tom, Ivan
willoates 04/May/10 TR β
with Steve
Hidden ?/May/10 2nd O/S
pie_eater_pete ?/Apr/10 Lead β
Rowansb 30/Jan/10 Lead O/S

first time on an E4, very good experience

Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
Hidden 19/Dec/09 Lead O/S
Brown 19/Dec/09 2nd
with Harry Westaway, Simon Westaway
Hidden ?/Dec/09 -
Jonathan Hall 10/Oct/09 TR
disturbed_one51 10/Oct/09 TR
with Wee man
Pete Graham 09/Oct/09 Lead O/S
natalietanzer 04/Oct/09 2nd
Hidden 19/Aug/09 Lead dnf
craig d 25/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Simon Kincaid
Hidden 14/Jun/09 2nd
Hidden ?/Jun/09 TR dog
Hidden 19/Apr/09 Lead RP
Nom 18/Apr/09 Lead RP


with Joe Bream
Hidden 18/Apr/09 TR dog
Harald 01/Mar/09 Lead O/S
michaelja ?/Feb/09 2nd
Hidden 04/Jan/09 Lead
AJ007 03/Jan/09 TR
stephenhartley ??/2009 2nd dog
with Burns
Hidden ??/2009 -
lukehunt 17/Dec/08 Lead O/S
with Steve barrat
The old James turnbull ?/Dec/08 Lead
with steve h
Fraser13 29/Nov/08 Lead O/S
Luke Brooks 25/Nov/08 Lead O/S

Not very sustained, couple of hardish moves between rests.

Sean_J 12/Oct/08 Lead O/S

First E4 onsight :) Felt pretty steady too, need to try some E5s now!

with Matt
Boy ?/Oct/08 -
Hidden 31/Mar/08 TR dog
Ian Broome 30/Mar/08 Lead

led on Al's gear, 2nd go after failing on mantel, a bit touch an go. One to do again. Brilliant climbing

with Al
alaan 30/Mar/08 Lead

Took two attempts to get the mantel. Lovely route.

with Ian
Ed Booth 17/Feb/08 Lead O/S

Awesome route, good technical moves with a spicy atmosphere.

Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden 30/Oct/07 Lead O/S
Ram MkiV 22/Oct/07 Lead O/S

the perfect grit trad climb. butch start and mantle followed by slightly bold, sustained grit shuffling moves between the breaks. glad i waited for a cold day.

with Steve Robinson
Alex Mason 30/Sep/07 Lead O/S

Awesome route, continuously interesting, spent more time worrying about failing than i did climbing as ive wanted to do it for so long, crux felt 5c.

with Vash
willackers 29/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Tom Mills, Dan Walker
sam8oy 22/Sep/07 TR dog

Found the mantel shelf very hard since i have pretty long legs. Fantastic climbing above, can't wait to be able to lead it.

with John
sam8oy 14/Sep/07 Lead dnf

Got very pumped placing the first bit of gear in the initial crack which made the rockover very tough

with Paul
Joe Dove 22/Jul/07 TR
with paul
Hidden ?/Jul/07 Lead
feilx 06/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Dave M
craig matheson ?/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Toby Dunn 13/Mar/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Mar/07 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
dan gibson 24/Oct/06 Lead O/S
with martina
JonBray 04/Sep/06 Lead rpt
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 05/Aug/06 Lead O/S

Awesome route, can't recommend it highly enough.

with Jon Box
Hidden 08/Feb/06 Lead O/S
Lex_2004 08/Feb/06 2nd
with Will Harris
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden 01/Oct/05 Lead O/S
Mark Riley ?/Oct/05 Lead O/S
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 Lead RP

3rd or 4th attempt over a number of years! The mantle is not very pleasant for the taller gentleman.

JulesV ??/2005 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2005 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove Jnr 01/May/04 Lead

very hot day

with Viv
Hidden ?/Sep/03 2nd O/S
Chris Reid 29/May/03 Lead O/S
with Richard allen
DubyaJamesDubya 05/May/03 Lead O/S
with Ian Smith
Gus 24/Mar/02 Lead O/S
lx ?/Mar/02 Lead O/S

onsight, 1st e4 onsight

Dave Musgrove Jnr 09/May/01 2nd
tuftynick ??/2001 -
Ropeboy 30/Apr/00 Lead
nickdonohue 26/Mar/00 2nd
with David ?, Sue Pinner
ellie macpherson ?/Sep/99 2nd

1 fall near top, then clean. very scarey route for leader

with matt smith, Ian Holmes
Hidden 18/Jul/99 Lead O/S
Rich Kirby ?/Sep/98 2nd rpt
with Paul Tanton/Suzy
Dave Musgrove 11/Jul/98 2nd
with David
Dave Musgrove Jnr 11/Jul/98 Lead O/S
with Dad
DavidEvans ?/May/98 2nd O/S
with Dave Ferguson
Dave Musgrove ?/Apr/98 2nd
with David
ellis ?/Feb/98 Lead O/S
with Sam Chinnery
JonBray ??/1998 Lead dog
Jon Read ?/Nov/97 Lead O/S
with Parish Chauhan
clark alston ?/Jul/95 Lead β
with Dick Hanson, Frank Ramsay
ste_d 09/May/95 2nd O/S
with mik
Hidden 05/May/95 TR O/S
ukb & bmc shark 10/Apr/95 Lead

Maybe with Simon Marsh

duncan 01/Apr/95 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove 15/Oct/94 2nd
Steve Crowe 09/Oct/94 Lead O/S
with KM
nokishatov 01/May/94 Lead RP
Roget 21/Aug/93 Lead O/S
with jon
Rich Kirby 06/Jun/93 Lead O/S
with Phil
Stoney Boy 02/Apr/93 Lead O/S
with Bob Marks
Hidden ??/1993 Lead
Chris Ellis 20/Sep/92 2nd
with Rick Kerr
Hidden 20/Aug/91 Lead β
Hidden ?/Jul/90 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Apr/90 TR
Billg ??/1990 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Oct/89 2nd O/S
Hidden 21/Sep/89 TR
Hidden 23/May/89 Lead
Hidden ?/Apr/89 Lead O/S
BRUCESTRAC ??/1988 -
with Chris Cracknell,Various
Hidden ??/1988 Lead
Rob Davies ?/Jul/87 2nd

Bit more in control this time, though still barely coping with the mantel

sadams 12/Sep/86 Lead
with Mark Bonham
ukb & bmc shark 27/Apr/86 Lead dnf
with Paul Hempstock
Mike Owen 27/Oct/85 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
Rob Davies ?/Aug/85 2nd dog

Leader was one of Tony's mates. Hardest part for me was initial mantel.

with Tony Welsh
Hidden 15/Apr/84 2nd
Mark Kemball 04/May/83 TR
with Paul Clark
Mark Kemball 23/Oct/82 Lead
with Andy Gittins
mark-abz 03/Oct/82 TR
with John S
andy gittins ??/1982 -
Rob Davies ?/Jun/80 2nd dnf

Couldn't do mantelshelf

with Martin Moran
paul__in_sheffield ??/1980 Lead
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
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Style of ascent
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