220m, 5 pitches.
An excellent and engaging route on sound rock requiring good route reading skills. The belays are equipped with one peg and one bolt and there are a handful of pegs and 3 bolts in the rest of the pitches. A double rack of totems, 1 BD #2, some micro friends and small nuts are useful.
P1- 25m 6a. A little scrappy and bushy, follow the corner and then take the ledges out left to get you to the belay ledge next to a spikey tree.
P2- 45m 6b+. A wonderful and wandering line that picks its way through some very interesting features. Head straight up off the belay to a peg, then up to the a small overhang and a bolt. Pull over the right hand side of this with some bold moves up in to a corner and peg. Follow the corner up and diagonally left. Small totems useful here. Another committing move to pull out left over the lip before heading to a small chossy ledge. From there move up and right under a small roof to a peg. The belay is hidden from view, up and diagonally right of the last peg.
P3 5c 55m. Traverse out left from the belay to an obvious corner, then follow the corner for about 5 meters until it steepens. Then step back right and continue up easier ground until the half way ledge. No fixed gear in this pitch. Walk across the easy broken ground to the base of the white wall and start of the next pitch.
P4 6c 55m. Another brilliant and committing pitch. Head up towards the first thread and over steep, positive holds between two small roofs to the second thread. These are weather worn and may need replacing. Arrange some good cams in the horizontal cracks before going through the right of the bulge to clip the peg. Tackle this on the left and make bold moves diagonally up and left to a thread. From the thread head up and right to the bolt and make a hard move over the bulge to belay on the ledge to the right of the tree.
P5 40m 6b. Follow the obvious broken corner to the summit. No fixed gear in this section.
Descent- Make 2 abseils from the top of pitch 5 to the base of the second tower. From there follow the gully on the left (facing out), down to the slabs and back to the base of the crag.
P1- 25m 6a. A little scrappy and bushy, follow the corner and then take the ledges out left to get you to the belay ledge next to a spikey tree.
P2- 45m 6b+. A wonderful and wandering line that picks its way through some very interesting features. Head straight up off the belay to a peg, then up to the a small overhang and a bolt. Pull over the right hand side of this with some bold moves up in to a corner and peg. Follow the corner up and diagonally left. Small totems useful here. Another committing move to pull out left over the lip before heading to a small chossy ledge. From there move up and right under a small roof to a peg. The belay is hidden from view, up and diagonally right of the last peg.
P3 5c 55m. Traverse out left from the belay to an obvious corner, then follow the corner for about 5 meters until it steepens. Then step back right and continue up easier ground until the half way ledge. No fixed gear in this pitch. Walk across the easy broken ground to the base of the white wall and start of the next pitch.
P4 6c 55m. Another brilliant and committing pitch. Head up towards the first thread and over steep, positive holds between two small roofs to the second thread. These are weather worn and may need replacing. Arrange some good cams in the horizontal cracks before going through the right of the bulge to clip the peg. Tackle this on the left and make bold moves diagonally up and left to a thread. From the thread head up and right to the bolt and make a hard move over the bulge to belay on the ledge to the right of the tree.
P5 40m 6b. Follow the obvious broken corner to the summit. No fixed gear in this section.
Descent- Make 2 abseils from the top of pitch 5 to the base of the second tower. From there follow the gully on the left (facing out), down to the slabs and back to the base of the crag.
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