110m, 5 pitches.
An excellent climb that weaves through the imposing orange wall on the right of Squirrel Spire.
P1 6b+ 30m. A slab and corner gives way to a tricky move to break through the overhangs and reach a sloping belay ledge.
P2 6c+ 20m. Follow the technical orange groove line before an airy traverse leads leftward to a large belay ledge.
P3 7a+/A0 15m. Boulder through the overhang with difficulty to reach a comfortable stance on the left.
P4 7a 30m. From the ledge above the belay make a series of exciting moves across the wall to gain the arête. Take the right-hand line of bolts to move around the arête into an absorbing face climb to a good stance below the final head wall.
P5 6b 15m. Climb onto the large block and follow the tricky corner until you can step left to finish up the airy slab on perfect rock.
Descent: From the summit pinnacle, scramble down for 15m and then walk easily back to the base of the tower (15 mins).
P1 6b+ 30m. A slab and corner gives way to a tricky move to break through the overhangs and reach a sloping belay ledge.
P2 6c+ 20m. Follow the technical orange groove line before an airy traverse leads leftward to a large belay ledge.
P3 7a+/A0 15m. Boulder through the overhang with difficulty to reach a comfortable stance on the left.
P4 7a 30m. From the ledge above the belay make a series of exciting moves across the wall to gain the arête. Take the right-hand line of bolts to move around the arête into an absorbing face climb to a good stance below the final head wall.
P5 6b 15m. Climb onto the large block and follow the tricky corner until you can step left to finish up the airy slab on perfect rock.
Descent: From the summit pinnacle, scramble down for 15m and then walk easily back to the base of the tower (15 mins).
Dave Simpson, Twid Turner, Nik Goile 05/May/2023.
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Route of Interest
Golden Horn
Grade: 7a+ ***
(Dedegol)