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75m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The superb icy route has a wonderful first pitch and a great chimney to finish.
1) 3, 30m. Climb the river of ice, wherever it has formed best, to belay beneath the chimney on the left..
2) 3, 45m. The chimney leads to an easy gully. © Rockfax

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden ??, 2018 Solo O/S
mileshill540 ??, 2014 Lead
gravity 6 Apr, 2013 2nd
with Binder, David
with Binder, David
Binder 6 Apr, 2013 AltLd O/S I led p1. Bit creaky in places.
with David B, gravity
I led p1. Bit creaky in places.
with David B, gravity
Hidden 3 Apr, 2013 AltLd
Hidden 3 Apr, 2013 AltLd
Katex 2 Apr, 2013 2nd O/S Beautiful day. Stunning icy, snowy weather and blue skies
with Simon Edwards
Beautiful day. Stunning icy, snowy weather and blue skies
with Simon Edwards
Hidden 30 Mar, 2013 Lead dnf
Hidden 24 Jan, 2013 2nd
Hidden 24 Jan, 2013 Lead O/S
cragtyke 23 Jan, 2013 AltLd led 1st pitch, continually interesting, tricky in places, average gear. really good.
led 1st pitch, continually interesting, tricky in places, average gear. really good.
bobpilgrem 23 Jan, 2013 AltLd O/S Good lead by John on P1-a bit thin in places and quite bold.Lead chimney P2 which felt much easier and with bomber gear.
with John
Good lead by John on P1-a bit thin in places and quite bold.Lead chimney P2 which felt much easier and with bomber gear.
with John
Danjones 22 Jan, 2013 AltLd dnf Fell 15' or so and broke leg on lower part of route! Ice screw held, but route not in good condition and axes and crampons lost grip! Raf rescue to Ysbyty Gwynedd!
with Gerallt
Fell 15' or so and broke leg on lower part of route! Ice screw held, but route not in good condition and axes and crampons lost grip! Raf rescue to Ysbyty Gwynedd!
with Gerallt
TeeBee u 21 Jan, 2013 AltLd rpt
with Tom
with Tom
Nick Russell 19 Jan, 2013 AltLd O/S A good, varied climb. Ice a bit soft on P1 (Steve's lead) and a fun mixed chimney to the top.
with SJS
A good, varied climb. Ice a bit soft on P1 (Steve's lead) and a fun mixed chimney to the top.
with SJS
SJS 19 Jan, 2013 AltLd O/S I led the first pitch, which with quite thin ice and after some heavy snow was quite spicy. Nick took pitch 2, which in the conditions turned out to be quite an interesting mixed chimney. A lot of variety.
I led the first pitch, which with quite thin ice and after some heavy snow was quite spicy. Nick took pitch 2, which in the conditions turned out to be quite an interesting mixed chimney. A lot of variety.
Hidden ? Jan, 2013 -
ash longreach ? Jan, 2013 2nd
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden 25 Dec, 2010 2nd
caradoc 24 Dec, 2010 Solo Intimidating, brittle in places and steeper than it looked from below.
Intimidating, brittle in places and steeper than it looked from below.
Hidden 19 Dec, 2010 Lead dnf
inuklm 5 Dec, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Dave Gent
with Dave Gent
chadrads 5 Dec, 2010 2nd O/S
with andy chapman
with andy chapman
AB1965 5 Dec, 2010 AltLd Thin/ bare in the middle, a bit higher up. very necky for a grade three leader, not technical difficult but bold. top chimney pitch was great
with Rich Ball
Thin/ bare in the middle, a bit higher up. very necky for a grade three leader, not technical difficult but bold. top chimney pitch was great
with Rich Ball
bob johnson 5 Dec, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Bram
with Bram
timjones 4 Dec, 2010 AltLd
Hidden 4 Dec, 2010 Lead O/S
ruaidh 4 Dec, 2010 AltLd O/S Thanks for the bonus route, Tim. Never did see you in Tyn y Coed, so you still owe me a pint!
with Unknown Tim
Thanks for the bonus route, Tim. Never did see you in Tyn y Coed, so you still owe me a pint!
with Unknown Tim
Diggler 3 Dec, 2010 Lead O/S Thin
with Johnny
Thin
with Johnny
tunaficiency ? Dec, 2010 2nd O/S stu led me and matt up horrible conditions
stu led me and matt up horrible conditions
Tim Sparrow ? Dec, 2010 Solo
Ally Smith ? Dec, 2010 Solo
Hidden 8 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S
groovy_nut 13 Jan, 2010 Lead rpt
with Chris
with Chris
farmus21 11 Jan, 2010 AltLd Lead the chimney pitch, short lived but fun.
Lead the chimney pitch, short lived but fun.
smallerrich 11 Jan, 2010 AltLd O/S Led first pitch, pretty throughly hacked.
Led first pitch, pretty throughly hacked.
TeeBee u 11 Jan, 2010 AltLd Dropped screw on Jake on 1st pitch.
with Jake
Dropped screw on Jake on 1st pitch.
with Jake
Hidden 10 Jan, 2010 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10 Jan, 2010 AltLd O/S
jimorothy 10 Jan, 2010 Lead Bit of a queue but worth it. Amazing ice - too good for my Harrer-era crampons.
with Rachel Crolla
Bit of a queue but worth it. Amazing ice - too good for my Harrer-era crampons.
with Rachel Crolla
Hidden 10 Jan, 2010 AltLd O/S
spidey 10 Jan, 2010 AltLd lead first and last section.
lead first and last section.
Hidden 9 Jan, 2010 AltLd O/S
LardClimber 9 Jan, 2010 Lead O/S
with Dave Williams
with Dave Williams
Hidden 9 Jan, 2010 AltLd O/S
climbing_wiggy 9 Jan, 2010 AltLd O/S led 1st pitch
with Leon
led 1st pitch
with Leon
Bex_M 9 Jan, 2010 2nd
with Duncan Dunbar
with Duncan Dunbar
m0untainman 8 Jan, 2010 Lead O/S Led the whole climb with partner Hewin aka Dan, one scary moment just before I got to the first belay when my axe popped out of a dodgy placement. An excellent route with an amazing sunset and pink snow in the distance on the final belay.
Led the whole climb with partner Hewin aka Dan, one scary moment just before I got to the first belay when my axe popped out of a dodgy placement. An excellent route with an amazing sunset and pink snow in the distance on the final belay.
RCrockford 8 Jan, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Andy M
with Andy M
Hewin 8 Jan, 2010 2nd O/S Me & Chris Ellis - Difficult move round bulge early on first pitch and steepens before ending P1. P2 through small gulley, much easier. Beautiful day, alpine like.
Me & Chris Ellis - Difficult move round bulge early on first pitch and steepens before ending P1. P2 through small gulley, much easier. Beautiful day, alpine like.
geoff b 7 Jan, 2010 AltLd An after-work torch-light ascent. I remember a lack of gear, except some poor ice screws, until the belay at the top of P1!
An after-work torch-light ascent. I remember a lack of gear, except some poor ice screws, until the belay at the top of P1!
Noodles 7 Jan, 2010 AltLd O/S Wicked end to the day. Met Miles and Ben on the route and finished just as twilight set in.
Wicked end to the day. Met Miles and Ben on the route and finished just as twilight set in.
Jillybean 7 Jan, 2010 AltLd amazing, finished as the stars were coming out :)
with Noodles
amazing, finished as the stars were coming out :)
with Noodles
MikePycroft 7 Jan, 2010 AltLd O/S Night ascent, at second attempt. First night failled due to broken tourch!
with geoff b
Night ascent, at second attempt. First night failled due to broken tourch!
with geoff b
Liam FLeming 6 Jan, 2010 -
with john bunney
with john bunney
Hidden 6 Jan, 2010 AltLd O/S
bob johnson 5 Jan, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Al Borrett
with Al Borrett
Rhys Jones 4 Jan, 2010 Solo
Mattilda 4 Jan, 2010 AltLd
Bram 4 Jan, 2010 Solo
groovy_nut 4 Jan, 2010 AltLd Great route, sadly ruined for me by the team of three somewhat out of their depth soloists ahead of us taking far, far longer than any roped team ever would have, and hacking away most of the ice despite the route being more than possible to climb entirely on hooks - a constant stream of debris falling all over the descent path with a rather large chunk hitting me directly in the head. Big dent in an expensive helmet but thankfully no injury.
with Matt K
Great route, sadly ruined for me by the team of three somewhat out of their depth soloists ahead of us taking far, far longer than any roped team ever would have, and hacking away most of the ice despite the route being more than possible to climb entirely on hooks - a constant stream of debris falling all over the descent path with a rather large chunk hitting me directly in the head. Big dent in an expensive helmet but thankfully no injury.
with Matt K
Smudge03 4 Jan, 2010 Solo O/S
Hidden 3 Jan, 2010 Solo
thecurlyone 3 Jan, 2010 AltLd I did P1. Good ice, though most of the ice screw placements had already been made. Some places looked like cheese. Short interestign chimney at the top.
with Dave Smith
I did P1. Good ice, though most of the ice screw placements had already been made. Some places looked like cheese. Short interestign chimney at the top.
with Dave Smith
Hidden 2 Jan, 2010 AltLd
Misha u 2 Jan, 2010 Solo O/S Easy, plastic ice on P1 and fun but short mixed section in the chimney on P2. 1st solo of the day.
Easy, plastic ice on P1 and fun but short mixed section in the chimney on P2. 1st solo of the day.
vincentvega 2 Jan, 2010 AltLd
with danny robb
with danny robb
Monkey_Alan 2 Jan, 2010 AltLd O/S Led chimney pitch.
Led chimney pitch.
Hidden 2 Jan, 2010 Solo
RachelP 2 Jan, 2010 2nd finished in the dark - awesome day out!
with Chris
finished in the dark - awesome day out!
with Chris
Hidden ? Jan, 2010 -
TheAndyBarker ? Jan, 2010 AltLd
with Jonny Herbert
with Jonny Herbert
Hidden ? Jan, 2010 AltLd O/S
Patrick803 ??, 2010 AltLd
with Jeremy Windsor
with Jeremy Windsor
tim20 ??, 2010 -
Karlos 9 Feb, 2009 AltLd Lovely route. Started slightly higher due to thin conditions lower down. Difficult move left onto main icefall, but easy angled and difficulties concentrated to a couple of committing steps. Belayed in steep gully and seconded final pitch.
with Tom
Lovely route. Started slightly higher due to thin conditions lower down. Difficult move left onto main icefall, but easy angled and difficulties concentrated to a couple of committing steps. Belayed in steep gully and seconded final pitch.
with Tom
nickcanute 7 Feb, 2009 AltLd
with tim parkinson
with tim parkinson
feilx 7 Feb, 2009 AltLd O/S
with Floris & Mike
with Floris & Mike
Hidden ? Mar, 2004 Lead O/S
aged_ape ? Jan, 2003 AltLd O/S
with Rob T
with Rob T
Hidden 7 Jan, 2001 Lead O/S
17 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
High III
Mid III
Low III
High II/III
Mid II/III
Low II/III
Votes cast 25
High 4
Mid 4
Low 4
High 3
Mid 3
Low 3
High 2
Mid 2
Low 2
Votes cast 23
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Soloed
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest

Cave Gully

Grade: III 4 ***
(Clogwyn y Garnedd)