UKC

70m, 2 pitches. No description has been contributed for this climb.

Allan Austin & Ed Grindley 04/Aug/1975.

Ticklists

Ultimate Scottish Rock , Scottish Rock Climbs **** , North West Summer Road Trip , Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes , Ultimate HVS ticklist , The Great Gumclub Ticklist , UK Holiday Plans , Scottish Rock Benchmarks , Gary's Ticklist HVS-E2 , Must climb at crags , Dad's Scottish Rock Underliners , 4 Star Scottish rock , Wired Scottish Rock Climbs **** , Gary Latter's Scottish Rock Ticklist , Banfords Road Trip Ticklist

Feedback

User Date Notes
JimGreen 2 Oct, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: P1. Stunning
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: P1. Stunning
John Cuthbert 31 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Second time round for Route two (first climbed it in 1996 with Johnny Garside), but as with so many other old, forgetful geezers, little of the new outing drew on any memory. Still, whether the first or the last rendering, whether for the ambiance, the rock quality, or the sheer joy of the sharp spring light highlighting a sense of separation, I was left feeling that any route on the black streak stained wall at Daibaig offers just about one of the finest things one can experience in trad. The route itself is something of a challenge for HVS, especially in hot sunshine and I can see why so many find the second pitch a bit goey. A new lower off on the left of the upper terrace (before the top) - rope and rings- provides an easy exit to the ground on 60s, or, if on 50s, to the lower ledge where a swanky new double bolt setup awaits.
Show beta
βeta: Second time round for Route two (first climbed it in 1996 with Johnny Garside), but as with so many other old, forgetful geezers, little of the new outing drew on any memory. Still, whether the first or the last rendering, whether for the ambiance, the rock quality, or the sheer joy of the sharp spring light highlighting a sense of separation, I was left feeling that any route on the black streak stained wall at Daibaig offers just about one of the finest things one can experience in trad. The route itself is something of a challenge for HVS, especially in hot sunshine and I can see why so many find the second pitch a bit goey. A new lower off on the left of the upper terrace (before the top) - rope and rings- provides an easy exit to the ground on 60s, or, if on 50s, to the lower ledge where a swanky new double bolt setup awaits.
TomMearns22 4 Mar, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Seconded Mull and Ali, got benighted and caught in the rain during P.2. I also had to abseil on a munter hitch because I forgot my belay plate. Also, the ropes were super tangled for the abseil, so the decent took a while. Overall, still fun, but more “adventurous”.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Seconded Mull and Ali, got benighted and caught in the rain during P.2. I also had to abseil on a munter hitch because I forgot my belay plate. Also, the ropes were super tangled for the abseil, so the decent took a while. Overall, still fun, but more “adventurous”.

Logged Ascents

808 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Diabaig

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 127 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 127
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 125
Votes cast 127
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Very Gneiss Wall

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Boathouse Crag)

Loading Notifications...