Allan Austin & Ed Grindley 04/Aug/1975.
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Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JTM | 1 May |
Show βeta
βeta: Just to be clear, the abseil anchor that John Cuthbert refers to is about 20m right - FACING IN - of the top of the route.I think even with 2 x 60s it's probably best to split the ab at the 2 bolt intermediate anchor rather than continuing to the ground in one. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Just to be clear, the abseil anchor that John Cuthbert refers to is about 20m right - FACING IN - of the top of the route.I think even with 2 x 60s it's probably best to split the ab at the 2 bolt intermediate anchor rather than continuing to the ground in one. |
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| JimGreen | 2 Oct, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: P1. Stunning | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: P1. Stunning |
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| John Cuthbert | 31 May, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Second time round for Route two (first climbed it in 1996 with Johnny Garside), but as with so many other old, forgetful geezers, little of the new outing drew on any memory. Still, whether the first or the last rendering, whether for the ambiance, the rock quality, or the sheer joy of the sharp spring light highlighting a sense of separation, I was left feeling that any route on the black streak stained wall at Daibaig offers just about one of the finest things one can experience in trad. The route itself is something of a challenge for HVS, especially in hot sunshine and I can see why so many find the second pitch a bit goey. A new lower off on the left of the upper terrace (before the top) - rope and rings- provides an easy exit to the ground on 60s, or, if on 50s, to the lower ledge where a swanky new double bolt setup awaits. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Second time round for Route two (first climbed it in 1996 with Johnny Garside), but as with so many other old, forgetful geezers, little of the new outing drew on any memory. Still, whether the first or the last rendering, whether for the ambiance, the rock quality, or the sheer joy of the sharp spring light highlighting a sense of separation, I was left feeling that any route on the black streak stained wall at Daibaig offers just about one of the finest things one can experience in trad. The route itself is something of a challenge for HVS, especially in hot sunshine and I can see why so many find the second pitch a bit goey. A new lower off on the left of the upper terrace (before the top) - rope and rings- provides an easy exit to the ground on 60s, or, if on 50s, to the lower ledge where a swanky new double bolt setup awaits. |
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| TomMearns22 | 4 Mar, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Seconded Mull and Ali, got benighted and caught in the rain during P.2. I also had to abseil on a munter hitch because I forgot my belay plate. Also, the ropes were super tangled for the abseil, so the decent took a while. Overall, still fun, but more “adventurous”. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Seconded Mull and Ali, got benighted and caught in the rain during P.2. I also had to abseil on a munter hitch because I forgot my belay plate. Also, the ropes were super tangled for the abseil, so the decent took a while. Overall, still fun, but more “adventurous”. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Diabaig
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Spider Left-Hand
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Aonach Dubh)