UKC

Rockfax Description
A stunning pitch for the rock athlete. Its first ascent was immortalised in an early climbing film with Ron Fawcett's, "Come on arms, do your stuff!" Take plenty of short thin slings and sky hooks to add to the limited protection. Start 3m right of Cenotaph Corner and climb the thin vertical cracks. Where they run out, continue direct to a series of thin ledges. Traverse right along these (here, a skilful climber can lasso a spike with their foot!) to dangerous moves up to a pocket. From the pocket, head up more easily for a short while until a go-ey few moves lead to another pocket with a runner and a nut out to the right. Move up and right to gain better holds that bring you to the Girdle Ledge. Thin moves up from here lead to a finger ledge that leads up to a faint groove. Follow this past a good wire, moving left to finish.. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Extreme Rock, North Wales Super Route E6's, Great Wall Climbs of the UK, North Wales Rock Graded List, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, Mike and Connors 2 year plan, 100 or so good E6s - aye Caff, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), The Lifetime List, Stanners lifetime Onsight attempt list, Definitive *** Llanberis, World Class Britain & Ireland

Feedback

User Date Notes
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 26 Apr Show βeta
βeta: If anyone wants some gear beta I'll leave it below this line.... In addition to the usual stuff, I got a few really good pieces: keyed in red off-set nut before the rightwards traverse. At the foot-sling spike I was able to reach down a place a good red cam beneath it (although I couldn't repeat it a second time!). At the first hole you can lock sling in with a big green nut above it and there is a green totem in the top of the hole. Out right (if you don't look you won't see it) is a black tri-cam in a hole (the old peg hole?) which seems good. Just up and left on the hole in a vertical slot is a small blue Totem which, if you're able to place it properly, seems 100%. Right of the thread (about a metre) at the second hole is an excellent number 4 wire - tricky to place. Above the girdle ledge on the top wall is a good cluster of gear. The best pieces are a big yellow nut in the base of the groove in a good hand hold that is part of the left-hand layback. There is also a red cam (totem seemed good) in the big obvious hole thing at the base of groove proper. There's loads more just beneath it including a green cam.
 
Show beta
βeta: If anyone wants some gear beta I'll leave it below this line.... In addition to the usual stuff, I got a few really good pieces: keyed in red off-set nut before the rightwards traverse. At the foot-sling spike I was able to reach down a place a good red cam beneath it (although I couldn't repeat it a second time!). At the first hole you can lock sling in with a big green nut above it and there is a green totem in the top of the hole. Out right (if you don't look you won't see it) is a black tri-cam in a hole (the old peg hole?) which seems good. Just up and left on the hole in a vertical slot is a small blue Totem which, if you're able to place it properly, seems 100%. Right of the thread (about a metre) at the second hole is an excellent number 4 wire - tricky to place. Above the girdle ledge on the top wall is a good cluster of gear. The best pieces are a big yellow nut in the base of the groove in a good hand hold that is part of the left-hand layback. There is also a red cam (totem seemed good) in the big obvious hole thing at the base of groove proper. There's loads more just beneath it including a green cam.
hugo glover Aug, 1997 Show βeta
βeta: First E6 onsite - Memory Lane to warm up then off I set. no clue about gear - only got a limp sling in the first port hole, very glad to get to the second one. wet at the top section but nothing was going to stop me.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: First E6 onsite - Memory Lane to warm up then off I set. no clue about gear - only got a limp sling in the first port hole, very glad to get to the second one. wet at the top section but nothing was going to stop me.

Logged Ascents

105 users have logged this
153 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
Votes cast 21
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 21
Votes cast 23
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest

Purr-Spire Direct

Grade: E6 6b ***
(Clogwyn Du'r Arddu (Cloggy))
Loading Notifications...