Climbs 158
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 400m a.s.l
Faces N

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SUPERDIRECT 2 © jethro kiernan

Crag features

One of the few crags in Britain with every grade - and something good at each of them. (Assuming Leo Houlding's E9 7a Trauma is good.. you try it.) Multi-pitch routes up to 580ft. Best include Direct Route (VS 5b), Diagonal (HVS 5a), Superdirect (E1 5b), Ten Degrees North (E2 5b), Stairway To Heaven (E3 5c).. it's a long list.

Approach notes

Park at the Cromlech boulders (get there early) and tonk up the hill. Don't forget to enjoy the view from the top, as well as the middle and bottom.

No Access Issues

The route Nexus on Dinas Mot appears to have a large loose block on pitch 3 (as given on UKC logbooks -, at the end of the ledge traverse, there's a large detached block with a well used chalked up handhold. Climbers doing the route recently (2017) are concerned that it may be in danger of falling if it continues to be used.  It's also positioned directly above the belay for pitch 2, which is equipped as an abseil point, the top part of pitch 2, and the starting point for several routes on the buttress.


Has there been a recent rockfall in the Gandalf / Beorn area of the Eastern Wing? We traversed under that area a few days ago and had to cross a lot of fresh looking boulder debris. There's a large scar near the first pitch of Beorn.
liensiwel - 07/Sep/23
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Climbs at this crag

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